Common People

If there is one place you would want to arrive and be welcomed after a journey to the other side of the world, it's Auckland. The numerous time zones we'd passed through dissolved in the early morning sunshine as we descended from high above the Pacific Ocean and caught our first sight of New Zealand. Auckland is a city built on 53 dormant volcanoes and looked bright, colourful and inviting. It would reveal itself as a friendly, laid back and happy to share itself with curious travellers.

Auckland waterfront

Auckland Airport runs with the kind of quiet, understated efficiency we’d soon recognise as distinctly Kiwi. Welcoming without going overboard. Biometric checks, bags waiting, no fuss, no drama. Immigration, luggage, done. Outside, the air felt different: cleaner, sharper. The centre of the city is a short 20‑minute taxi ride from the International Airport, and our modern, central hotel was in a great location adjacent to the iconic Sky Tower. 

The shadow of the Sky Tower, Auckland

Despite travelling for 24 hours we were determined to ride out the jet lag for as long as we could. So after a quick freshen-up we started our exploring at the nearby Sky Tower. Auckland’s skyline is dominated by this needle‑like structure which is the second tallest in the Southern Hemisphere. There are viewing platforms across several different levels, and the windows are cleverly positioned at an angle so not only you can see the whole city panorama but you can look straight down to the city streets over 300 metres below. It's a great starting point to absorb what the city has to offer, the harbours and marinas, bridges, the vivid green volcanic cones and the islands which are scattered like stepping stones across the Hauraki Gulf.

Sky Walkers, the Sky Tower

We also had our first taste of New Zealand’s outdoor‑adventure spirit, watching bungee jumpers plummet past the viewing areas of the Sky Tower. On the other side of the huge panes of glass brave folk in bright orange jumpsuits shuffled around the building’s edge on skywalks, leaning out into nothing but air. Bonkers.

Trolls guarding the entrance of the Wētā Cave, Auckland

Also tucked into the sprawling Sky Tower complex is the Wētā Cave, a tiny outpost of Wellington’s legendary effects studio, best known for Peter Jackson’s Tolkien epics, where we had our first glimpse into the world of the Lord of the Rings phenomenon.

Auckland and Devonport

Our first day in Auckland was crowned with something special. Pulp were playing at the seafront Spark Arena. By this point we were running on pure adrenaline, our excitement threaded with the quiet relief of finally being here after a year of planning. We mingled with the locals in the bars along Quay Street and sank cold beers in the sunshine with the promise of a memorable night ahead. It was Pulp’s first New Zealand show in thirteen years, and despite being their first gig in five months there wasn’t a hint of rustiness. Jarvis had us all eating out of his hand within minutes. An epic concert, and the perfect way to begin the trip. The jet lag (and hangover) would eventually catch up with us over the next few days but the first day in Aotearoa was a blast. A strong opening on the far side of the world.

Pulp at the Spark Arena, Auckland

The following day was Sunday and the perfect opportunity to slow things down. The harbours and marinas of Auckland were a welcome antidote to our foggy malaise. Auckland treats Sundays with the respect they deserve, slow, gentle, almost meditative. The Viaduct Harbour and Wynyard Quarter are former industrial docklands now reshaped into open spaces, bars, restaurants, and polished waterfront living. For the first few hours of Sunday we were alone on the waterfront before joggers and dog walkers gradually started to fill the boardwalks. We wondered along the Westhaven Promenade, a long wooden walkway skirting the marina. At the far end is a postcard view of the Auckland Harbour Bridge stretching out to the Northland over the calm water. Looking back toward the city, the skyline rises through hundreds of gently bobbing boats and is framed between their masts.

Auckland skyline from the Westhaven Promenade

Mount Eden (Maungawhau) is one of Auckland’s many volcanic cones and is within easy reach of the city centre, being only an hour's walk from the seafront. The walk passes along Karangahape Road, K-Road to locals which is a bohemian strip of vintage shops, tattoo studios, and late‑night bars. Whilst early in the day you'll struggle to find much action we did return at night to sample the restaurants and nightlife.

Mount Eden, Auckland

Mount Eden itself is spectacular: a perfectly formed grassy crater with panoramic views of the city and its two harbours. The trees looked like they’d been borrowed from Middle‑earth, which felt like a good omen for the rest of the trip.

Chic Devonport, Auckland

We were keen to explore the waterfront and the best way to do this is on one of the daily cruises that boasts the best view of Auckland City’s skyline and landmarks. Over a very relaxed ninety minutes we took in the Sky Tower, Devonport and adjacent Naval Base and Rangitoto Island which is Auckland’s youngest volcano and an iconic feature of the Hauraki Gulf. Passing under the expansive Auckland Harbour Bridge there were more bungee jumpers. Everywhere we go, people seem to be throwing themselves off things! We were perched on the top deck in the sunshine as the boat skimmed past Bean Rock Lighthouse, a charming little Victorian structure perched on stilts. 

Bean Rock Lighthouse, Auckland

The seaside village of Devonport sits opposite the city and looked lovely from the water, so we jumped on one of the regular ferries for a breezy 15‑minute crossing with great views back toward the city. Devonport is one of Auckland’s oldest suburbs, full of Victorian villas, naval history, and leafy streets. Our first objective was to climb the grassy volcanic hill of Takarunga or Mount Victoria. As with everywhere in Davenport there are spectacular views of the Auckland skyline and we found the summit dotted with giant painted toadstools, a local art project adding a touch of the bizarre.

Takarunga or Mount Victoria, Devonport

From there we walked along the beautiful waterfront to North Head, another volcanic cone but one with a strong military presence in the form of old military tunnels, gun emplacements, and more sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf. 

North Head, Devonport

Auckland proved itself to be the perfect antidote to jet lag whilst allowing us to acclimatise to being on the other side of the world. A compact city with great shopping set around the central throughfare of Queen Street. Great choices of bars and restaurants, a waterfront that just calls on you to slow down and relax, and so much to see and do that you never feel like you are treading water. Most importantly, the people were down to earth, straightforward and unfussy. Just how we like 'em.

Sky Tower, Auckland

There was only one way to end our time in Auckland, at the defining Auckland landmark of the Sky Tower. Our final evening was spent at the Orbit 360 Restaurant which revolves slowly offering a full panoramic sweep of the city as you eat. As the sun slipped away and Auckland fell into its evening glow, we sat with the quiet satisfaction of a journey properly underway. Next stop the Northland.

Night-time view from the Sky Tower, Auckland