Hotter than July

We were already deep into Manchester’s fourth official heatwave of the year when we headed to Tarragona on the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast) of Spain, about 60 miles southwest of Barcelona. It was also cracking the flags by the Mediterranean but at least this heat would be complimented by cold beer, tapas and a warm sea breeze.

Tarragona

We flew into Reus Airport from which the seaside city of Tarragona is only a fifteen-minute taxi drive away. We arrived early evening to find the Sant Magí Festival in full swing throughout the city, which meant navigating fire-breathing dragons and giant puppets (known as gegants) on our way to Plaça del Fòrum where chilled red wine and tapas were waiting for us. It was certainly some welcome to the city!

Sant Magí Festival, Tarragona

Tarragona doesn’t do quiet festivals. The Sant Magí Festival is held every August and is a week-long celebration of Catalan culture honouring Saint Magí, a hermit said to have miraculously brought water to the city during a drought. Our hotel had warned us in advance that if would be a noisy affair, but it was nothing that a good a pair of ear plugs couldn't keep at bay. Even the most ardent solace seeker would be moved by the enthusiasm of the locals as the streets throng with carnival processions. There seemed to be a stage in every square with bands and music keeping everyone dancing, and a cacophony of canon fire and explosions continued throughout the evening.

Sant Magí Festival, Tarragona

Early morning is a much more sedate affair and the perfect time to explore before temperatures get too hot. We set off to conquer the four cornerstones of Part Alta’s Roman heritage, all part of the UNESCO-listed Archaeological Ensemble of Tarraco. We started at the impressive amphitheatre which is perched dramatically on the seafront. The theatre hosted gladiatorial fights to the death and over the subsequent centuries was the site of a Romanesque church and Christian Basilica, the ruins of which can still be seen today.

Roman Amphitheatre, Tarragona

The nearby Roman Circus is considered one of the best-preserved chariot race stadiums in Western Europe, capable in its day of seating up to 30,000 spectators. Though much of it lies hidden beneath the medieval city, the surviving tunnels and reconstructed models in the museum give a vivid sense of the scale and spectacle. These tunnels lead into the Provincial Forum Praetorium, where the footprint and fragments of a huge complex of impressive public buildings and squares still exists. Again, this area is brought to life with maps and displays to give you a sense of the great Roman city of Tarraco. From the assortment of towers and balconies you can enjoy fabulous views of the modern city.

Roman Circus, Tarragona

Some what out of step with the Roman theme the next stop was the Canals House, named after the family owners, which is an 19th century time capsule boasting a grand ballroom and romantic garden. If you are lucky, you will be serenaded by the friendly tour guide singing "Just an Illusion" to illustrate an optical illusion on one of the ceilings. Ok.

Rooftops and Cathedral of Tarragona

We completed the quartet of sites (all available on one great value ticket) by visiting the Archaeological Promenade Walls, part of the original Roman fortifications built in the 2nd century BC. These walls once protected the military zone of Tarraco. We'd managed all this in a morning despite the temperature hitting the low thirties and reducing everyone to puddles of sweat.

The temperatures didn't put a dampener on the festival celebrations and by early afternoon they were gearing up again, buoyed by it also being a Spanish Bank Holiday. The streets were filled with merriment, with loads of pop-up bars to get a cold beer or tapas. The music of walking bands filled the air, punctuated by more canon fire which was in danger of finishing off some more delicately attuned folk.

Colourful streets of Tarragona

We enjoyed a great meal in a restaurant that sat in the shadow of  the Cathedral of Tarragona. The Cathedral stands on the highest point of Part Alt and is visible from throughout the city. It was built on the site of a Roman temple and been through various incarnations as a Visigothic Cathedral and a Moorish Mosque, so is typical of Iberian history.  

Outside the main town there is an excellent coastal path that passes several beaches and then skirts the main Port of Tarragona without ever diverting away from the Mediterranean Sea. An hour's walk on this promenade will get you to the Lighthouse Far de la Banya, which is also a museum - Museu de Fars. It is a beautiful structure with the lighthouse sitting on ornate iron lattice.

Far de la Banya, Tarragona

Returning to the city, we made a small diversion to the Fisherman's quarter of El Serrallo. It's a small collection of seafood restaurants complemented by repurposed harbour buildings now hosting art exhibitions. The art extends to sculptures and installations, as well as street murals making this a perfect place to spend a few hours and grab some lunch.

El Serrallo, Tarragona

One of the most awe-inspiring sights in Catalonia is the castell, or human tower and Tarragona is one of its spiritual homes. We saw a team preparing for one of these towers, which can reach up to ten levels high, built entirely from people standing on each other’s shoulders, and usually involves sending a small child to the summit to celebrate. There is a fabulous statue celebrating the castell on Nova Rambla which gives you a great sense of the achievement without being in the watching crowd and in danger of lots of grown men falling on you.

The castell, or human tower of Tarragona

We didn't know the Sant Magí festival was taking place until we arrived, but it only added to our enjoyment of our time in Tarragona. But even without the noisy and friendly festival, Tarragona has lots to offer as a long weekend break if you are looking for sea view, beaches, culture and great food.

Tapas, Tarragona