Soul Wandering

Rhodes Town can be found in the north of the small island of Rhodes and is a short twenty minute taxi ride from the airport. The centre piece of the town (split into the old and new) is a magnificent walled fortress built by the Order of the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John, whom we also bumped into on our recent trip the Malta. That Mediterranean island was their next destination after the Ottoman Turkish forces drove the Knights from Rhodes in the 1500s. And the Old Town of Rhodes remains the oldest medieval inhabited settlement in Europe. It is a living, breathing entity with homes, hotels, shops, bars and restaurants. There are also excellent museums, Byzantine-era mosques (pre-Knights) and a Grand Palace to explore.

Rhodes Old Town

The Old Town within the fortified walls feels unchanged and because it is essentially no different to a thousand years ago it enjoys a unique atmosphere. Adjacent to the Old Town is the very pretty Malaki Marina which leads into the New Town which has a more Italian leaning in it's architecture. There is also the not so pretty (but not ugly) ferry and cruise terminal which means (like other popular cruise destinations) the Old Town can get a little swamped at parts of the day. Thankfully, come early evening the ancient streets heave a collective sigh of relief as the transient crowds dissipate and the town becomes an absolute pleasure to explore and you can enjoy some wonderful Greek food in a lovely, warm ambience. 

Either side of Rhodes Town on the west and east shores are hotels, a selection of good and bad bars and long sandy beaches which look fabulous against the resplendent electric blue of the Aegean sea.

The view from the fortifications of Rhodes Old Town

We were staying in the suburbs in a rooftop apartment which was only a twenty minute walk to the Marina or Old town, but it was also in close proximity to some fabulous local restaurants where the chance of bumping into fellow tourists is pretty much zero.

The lighthouse at Saint Nicholas Fortress

You don't need any instructions for exploring inside the walled Old Town. So close the guide book and ditch Google Maps and lose yourself in the narrow, beguiling medieval streets. Entering at the imposing gate Brama d'Amboise you'll find yourself on on the main throughfares of  Orepheus which is busy with shops and restaurants. Before this segues into the equally busy Sokratusthat check out the Clock Tower. It's only five Euros to get in and this also gets you a free drink at the very pleasant bar in the Clock Tower courtyard. It's a great spot to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the daytime throng and the views from the top of the tower are the best in Rhodes Town.

The Medieval Moat of Rhodes Old Town

The moat that surrounds the Old Town beneath it's ramparts is a splendid way to take in the grandeur of the medieval fortifications. It's accessible by a few entrances around the walls and is a lovely tranquil area to stroll and enjoy some peace and quiet. Be careful not to trip up over any cannon balls, left courtesy of the Ottoman besiegers in the fifteenth century.

Back inside the walls, the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes is an excellent place to spend a couple of hours. It gathers together lots of artifacts from the island's rich history and these are displayed in the great courtyards and large maze of stone rooms. Particularly impressive are the floor mosaics, now displayed vertically for viewing purposes, in the rich lush outdoor gardens and terraces of the building.

Archaeological Museum of Rhodes

Another must see is the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. You'll find this at the end of the famous cobbled medieval street Street of the Knights of Rhodes, which has seven inns representing the Knight's countries of origin.

Street of the Knights of Rhodes

The Palace is very popular so come early or late to beat the crowds. It's home to museums containing artifacts from ancient & medieval Rhodes and mosaics from the Dodecanese Islands. The courtyard and building are very impressive and the cool stone corridors provide a pleasant escape from the hot sunny streets. Make sure you buy a ticket for the walls at the same time. Just off the main courtyard the entrance to the walls enables you to walk the imposing ramparts for nearly three quarters of the town circumference and offers fabulous views. You eventually descend on the other side of the Old Town near the harbour. 

Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes

After the Old Town the next big hitter is the Acropolis of Rhodes which is located a twenty minute walk from the Old and New Towns. It is located in lovely, huge park grounds and access to the theatre, stadium, running track and Acropolis is free and it is a fantastic place to visit. And, yes I did run around the 400m track. 

Just beyond the Acropolis is St Stephen's Hill which has stunning views of the sea and beaches below.

The theatre at Acropolis of Rhodes

The centre piece of the Mandraki Marina & Port is the Saint Nicholas Fortress and the nice Lighthouse which stands guard over the harbour and the legendary Colossus of Rhodes harbour entrance. A magnificent bronze statue of Helios the Sun God once straddled the port entrance and was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Whether it actually ever existed is subject to debate but it's nice to imagine. The Marina is also where you will find a plethora of tour operators selling boat trips, and where you can jump on day trips to Lindos and Symi, amongst other places.

Kato Petres Beach, Rhodes

One of the nice things about Rhodes Town is it's all very walkable. Stroll from the Marina to the New Town then continue onto the beach fronts where you can grab a cold beer and some lunch and take in the stunning colours of the sea. Continuing a little further on the west coast is a nice coastal path that hugs the sea and passes a lovely little hidden church in the Cave Archangel Michael Panormitis.

Shell Shop boat at Rhodes Harbour

Before we leave Rhodes Town a couple of honorary mentions for some great restaurants.
In the heart of the medieval city, for a super-sized lunch search out the Hermes Grill where you'll find Pork Gyros with fries with no portion control, all for eight euros!
In the evening another excellent choice in the Old Town is the family run Meli Restaurant.
Both the above have superb vegetarian options.

A bit further afield (where there will be no tourists) try the very local Italian O Core è Mamma. Again, another family run restaurant this time serving incredible pizza and pastas. They will look after you here so it's worth searching this one out.

Next time we'll venture further afield to the beautiful white-washed town of Lindos and also pay a visit to the iconic island of Symi.

The lighthouse at Saint Nicholas Fortress