Mandolin Wind

Argostoli, Kefalonia

It's 4am in the morning and we're sat in Manchester airport watching the morning creep. Accordingly to the weather app on our phones the destination of sunny Kefalonia suddenly looks cold and wet. We've panicked and already bought an umbrella before we discover the BBC Weather App has gone AWOL and is reporting weather from six months ago. Given the recent heatwave decimating areas of the central Mediterranean it's no wonder weather apps are throwing in the towel as the rapid effects of climate change take a grip. The accepted norm has shifted far faster than anyone predicted, or has it? The warnings have been sounded for decades. Nature is dictating the acceleration of change at it's own pace, and if governments don't buy in soon, any measures taken will have limited, if any, impact on our planet's future.

We regularly travel out of season to take advantage of quieter tourist periods and lower temperatures, but this year will have a huge impact on what is deemed seasonal in the future. But I have to remain optimistic for our planet, there are too many good folk out there to give in to the few. 

Saint Theodore Lighthouse, Kefalonia

Wind back to early July this year and the Ionian islands of Greece are a perfect temperature and Kefalonia is looking beautiful. The crystal clear Ionian sea laps against idyllic sandy coves and lush green vegetation adorns the lower parts of it's hilly interior. There are underground caverns to explore and around every corner on it's excellent (but sometimes windy) roads you'll find dramatic picture-perfect landscapes.
The many fishing villages and harbours are unspoiled and teeming with great value bars and restaurants but in your haste to visit them don't miss the out on the seafront capital of Argostoli which is only a short drive away from the airport.

De Bosset pedestrian Bridge, Argostoli, Kefalonia

We stayed two nights in Argostoli which is an understated but healthy-looking city nestled on headland to the west of the island. The natural Bay of Argostloi runs the length of the city and is a shallow body of water that can be traversed by the De Bosset pedestrian Bridge, the longest stone bridge over the sea in the world, apparently. It's a very pleasant stroll across the bridge to the opposite side of the bay.

The Sea Turtles of Argostoli

The clear, tranquil waters are home to fabulous Sea Turtles that take advantage of the many fishing boats that potter in and out of the harbour providing them with an easy lunch. The turtles can be seen from the quayside, which is a lovely area back-dropped by lush green hills and is a great place to grab something to eat or drink at any time of the day or night.

Harbourside restaurant, Argostoli

The Greek town teems with wonderful food options. The restaurants and Tavernas are excellent and great value for money. The highly rated Tzivras restaurant is typical of some of the eateries popular with locals. There is not much of a menu so you choose with your eyes from a hot counter of prepared food. You can pick from pork chops, chicken casserole, potatoes, butter beans in sauce, okra, Greek salads, fish stews and they will be delivered to your classic checked-cloth-covered  table with an ice-cold Mythos beer. Wonderful! If wine is your tipple we found everywhere on the island offered the option of a carafe of local wine to accompany your meal, again great value.

Tzivras restaurant, Argostoli

Along the seafront you'll also find several bakeries selling fresh pastries, breads, cakes and various versions of spanakopita (spinach and feta pie). Top tip - These wonderful spinach pasties are perfect for the journey home. It certainly beats any airport offerings.

The Headland of Argostoli

The walk from the town to the headland of Argostoli along the seafront takes under an hour and offers wonderful views the Bay and it's pristine waters. There are also a few points of interest along the way. First up was the unusual natural phenomenon of the Sinkholes of Argostoli and one still has a wooden waterwheel to take advantage of the constant waterflow that occur in these 'Swallow Holes'.

Slightly further along is the grandiose Saint Theodore Lighthouse which sits majestically on a throne of white limestone surrounded by turquoise waters. A quite wonderful setting.

Saint Theodore Lighthouse, Kefalonia

If you return to the town over the hills you'll come across poignant monuments to the soldiers that fell during the occupation of the island in the second world war. It's difficult to correlate a place so peaceful with the horrors of war.

Two days in Argostoli was a excellent introduction to the island of Kefalonia. Next we head north to our second destination and enjoy more of this beautiful island and of course bag a few more lighthouses such as the couple below at Fiskardo.

The lighthouses of Fiskardo, Kefalonia