You're the one for me , Fatty

Bologna is one of the most famous food cities in the world and being of Manchester stock it immediately feels a home from home. Bologna is a strong university town, sturdy industrial red brick buildings are prolific throughout, there's a hint of a canal and it even rains for us to complete the picture. I do have to concede that Bologna has a more prominent position on the world culinary map but that's the very reason we are here and it certainly lived up to our expectations.

View of Bologna from the Museo della Specola

We based ourselves in the very bijou neighbourhood of Bolognina which is on the opposite side of the train station to central Bologna. Again it was reminiscent of a Manchester leafy suburb with it’s own bars and restaurants and a central market that transformed itself in the evening to a collection of pop up bars and eateries. One night we ate at the friendly Ristorante Pizzeria Jari who simply transformed the street into an outdoor restaurant by deploying tables as requested. Wonderful.

Eating out in the old town, Bologna.

From Bolognina it’s a twenty minute stroll across the large train bridge to the centre of the city and that’s where we headed on our first night to the incredibly popular Trattoria dal Biassanot on Via Piella. Make sure you book. The restaurant is adjacent to a hidden canal that you can peak at through a hole in wall on the street. 

The hidden canal of Via Piella

My first pasta experience in Bologna was a good one, the Tortellini in brodo di cappone (meat pasta in a capron broth) was delicious. The vegetarian option of ricotta tortellini was also excellent. We continued to eat like kings in Bologna, a highlight for me being the dish named after the city, the legend that is tagliatelle a la Ragu and the local cheeses are divine.

Pasta, Bologna style

A few other places worth a mention are the highly rated Tamburini where you will join the locals to enjoy a lunch of burrata cheese, charcuterie and warm bread. For another lunchtime treat seek out the super friendly and quite bizarre Osteria del Sole bar in the back streets of the old town. Here the key is to bring your own food and you are encouraged to essentially have your own picnic whilst they'll supply the beer. A delightful concept. And if you need quick food on the go you’ll have fun grabbing a sandwich and beer at the very busy outdoor panini stall of Panini Di Mirò in the University district.

Incredible food shop, Bologna

Whilst the city famous for it’s food was certainly living up to it’s reputation by the end of day two we were beginning to question how do people eat so much?

Thankfully Bologna has the perfect antidote for all those extra calories, mile after marvellous mile of endless Porticoes to explore, and if need be, shelter from a sudden downpour. 

The endless porticoes of Bologna

As with Florence the squares of Bologna are a feast for the yes.  Neptune again pops up (literally) on the Piazza del Nettuno as it’s name would suggest and the adjacent Piazza Maggiore is home to the Palazzo d'Accursio, the city's town hall. Be sure to explore the whispering walls just off Piazza Maggiore, they are a wonderful trick of architectural magic.

Piazza del Nettuno

Bologna was once dominated by hundreds of towers, built by competing rich families as a demonstration of their wealth and power. Just two now remain at Piazza di Porta Ravegnana and whilst they are still standing, they have a slight lean. But that doesn’t deter long queues of tourists ascending them for the views of the city.

Piazza del Nettuno

We opted for a different view at the Observatory Museum, the Museo della Specola. The museum hosts a one hour tour of the museum two or three times a day. Even if astronomy isn't your first love the tour is very interesting and you're learn a lot about parabolic mirrors and the multi-mirror telescope by Guido Horn-d’Arturo.

The pay off for the tour is the view from the rooftop of the observatory at the end of the tour which is spectacular. We had the rooftop to ourselves with incredible red city views of Bologna. It's certainly a very decent alternative to ascending the very busy towers and this guarantees you a view of the two towers.

One of the two towers at Piazza di Porta Ravegnana

In the laid back and bohemian University district you’ll find a much cheaper cup of coffee and a great selection of more economical places to eat. Maybe don’t eat if you decide to check out the "Luigi Cattaneo" collection of anatomical waxes at the University. It's free to enter, and is a fascinating "peculiar travel through art and time into the human body". The museum is not for the faint hearted or something to be done straight after lunch!

The Luigi Cattaneo" collection of anatomical waxes 

Continuing the anatomical theme the Teatro Anatomico is a science hall with lecture theatre and slab in the incredible setting of Biblioteca Comunale dell'Archiginnasio. It is a 16th-century hall used for anatomy lectures & dissections, with intricate wood sculptures. It is a must see.

Teatro Anatomico, Bologna

The longest portico in the city boasts an epic uphill walk to Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, and it starts at portico Porta Saragozza in the south west of the city. The views of the countryside from the sanctuary were a lovely window onto another world at the edge the city limits.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, Bologna

Bologna had met all our high expectations for food and ambiance, we'd certainly had our fill! The final leg of our north Italian tour was taking us to to the serene Lake Garda by train via Verona. It was just a short hop from the hectic station at Verona to Desenzano del Garda ,but it was another world when we arrived.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, Bologna