Golden Lights

Emerging from lockdown after so many false starts against a backdrop of uncertainty was always going to be a challenge. So after a long period of social isolation we choose to head to one of the most secluded places we could find, and somewhere where we both felt comfortable and safe. A lighthouse.

Trevose Lighthouse, Cornwall

The journey started with a six hour drive down the country from our home in the north west. The weather dictated the drive was completed in a tunnel of relentless driving rain and swirling winds, broken only by brief respites in service stations. They were busy with fellow souls brave enough to venture out from lockdown into the stubborn early May murkiness.

Trevose Lighthouse, Cornwall

As we entered the southern-most county in the UK the rain eased, so Cornwall reciprocated by ramping up the gales but then delivered the payload that made the journey all worth while. The road dipped and revealed a small beach with a few hardy surfer souls set against our first glimpse of the deep dark ocean and suddenly everything was ok with the world. 

Trevose Lighthouse from Dinas Head, Cornwall

Long Cove Beach in Mother Ivy's Bay provided the familiar (I wasn't going to say quintessential) British scene. Sand meeting the sea under a blanket of black clouds will always generate a warm glow and it heralded our arrival at the nearby Trevose lighthouse, our home for the next week.

The great British spirit braving the storms at the Lizard, Cornwall

Many of the UK's lighthouses are now automated and the old lighthouses keeper quarters now enjoy a second life as holiday cottages. As you would expect they are formidable buildings, built to withstand the extremes of exposed coastal weather. Is anything more perfect than sheltering from a storm in a lighthouse doused in sea spray's hanging mist? Watching the waves crash below while listening to the wind howl round the cottage trying to find a weak spot to sneak in and remind you who is the boss.

Cornish ice-cream at Mevagissey, Cornwall

There are four cottages at Trevose Lighthouse yet the extensive gardens and near 3 foot-thick walls of the buildings guarantees you that lighthouse isolation experience. There are plenty of vantage points within the grounds for you to enjoy the ocean views without encroaching on fellow guests.

Trevose Lighthouse, Cornwall

The lighthouse is one of the stars of the south western coastal path and is a great base to explore some of the 630 miles of England's longest waymarked pathway. From Trevose Head to Porthcothan is a leisurely two hour walk along some great beaches blessed with some wonderful names: Booby's Bay, Fox Cove, Stinking Cove, Constantine Bay. Dinas Head is a large outcrop neighbouring the lighthouse and offers a great vantage point.

Trevose Lighthouse, Cornwall

Heading east from the lighthouse it is a truly stunning three and a half hour stomp to Padstow. The walk encompasses some dramatic coastline panoramas that you work your way around before descending to the endless beaches that mark the entrance to Padstow harbour, incorporating the infamous doom bar.

South Western Coastal Path, Cornwall

After the relative solitude of our coastal hideaway busy Padstow was a shock to the system, but we  managed to parachute in, grab a couple of pasties and find a secluded perch on the quayside to watch the comings and goings of this little shipping port cum holiday Mecca.

St Anthony Lighthouse, Cornwall

On the south coast of Cornwall you will find the picturesque Roseland peninsula complete with the beautiful St Anthony Lighthouse. The lighthouse was featured in the opening credits of Jim Henderson's iconic muppet show 'Fraggle Rock' and is affectionately referred to as such. Despite it's lofty position on the cliffs overlooking the entrance to Falmouth harbour there are many vantage points to view the lighthouse including an old observation tower. In addition the surrounding National Trust pathways all offer splendid views of St Mawes and it's castle across the estuary.

St Anthony Lighthouse, Cornwall

A short drive from Fraggle Rock is the archetypal Cornish harbour village of Mevagissey. The Victoria Pier Head Lighthouse is the perfect spot for an ice cream whilst watching the local fisherman work on their nets.  The local shops were at last opening up and if nautical oddities are you thing you'll be spoilt for choice. A word of warning, do consider how heavy a lobster pot is before carrying one back out of the village to the car park.

Mevagissey, Cornwall

Vitoria Pier Head Lighthouse, Mevagissey, Cornwall

The lighthouse at the Lizard is well worth the long drive to get there, even in the rain. The coastal walks of the peninsula are breathtakingly. They offer up fascinating history in the form of Marconi's wireless cottage and the stunning beauty of Kynance Cove.

Lizard Lighthouse, Cornwall

Back on the north coast of Cornwall sits Pendeen Lighthouse which can be reached from St.Ives along the scenic St Ives road which passes Zennor. On the other side of St Ives is the long sandy beach at Gordevy which is very popular with surfers and walkers. Again the coastal paths are a joy, especially around Godrevy Point which has spectacular vistas of the tiny islet and it's lighthouse.

Godrevy Lighthouse, Cornwall

Our excursion to Cornwall came as the country was unlocking itself from the grip of the pandemic. Indoor hospitality was still yet to return but a pint and a pub lunch, sometimes in the warmth of the early spring sun, often under a cloud of drizzle, but always in the open was a real breath of fresh air.  And it served to highlight not only what we had been missing, but what we too often take for granted.

Pendeem Lighthouse, Cornwall

Back at the lighthouse cottage, braving the bracing evening winds we watch as the sun goes down and the beam of the lantern slowly emerges to take control. The light arrows across the darkening skies and circles in a hypnotic gaze cutting through the night and you realise how fortunate you are to be in such a special place. The light kept shining throughout the pandemic and will continue to do so whatever the future has in store and that is welcome solace in these dark times.  

Trevose Lighthouse, Cornwall