Around the lake

Lake Como, Italy
September 2020 and most of Europe are re-entering enforced lock downs in some form as the second wave of the Corona virus starts to take hold. Travel as we previously knew it is currently out of reach, which serves to highlight the huge enjoyment people get from exploring different cultures and counties, and how it is sorely missed. It also exposes the frailties of a lifestyle taken for granted.

The famous Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como, Italy

In between lock-downs we visited the Lombardy region in Italy and spent some time on Lake Como. I took a look at the town of Como where we based ourselves in an earlier blog which can be found here. This time I'll be sharing the highlights of the Lake itself to remind us of times I hope we can all look forward to enjoying again sometime soon.

Lake Como, Italy

The timetable for the boats on Lake Como requires an degree in mathematics to comprehend, but there are essentially two types of trip, the express hydrofoil and the slower, cheaper cruiser that takes just over 2 hours from Como to get to the centre of the lake and the famous trio of Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna.

Both have their advantages, the outdoor decks of the cruisers means you can enjoy the incredible views of the Lake as life passes by in slow motion whilst the less frequent hydrofoil will get you there in less than half the time of the slower boats.

Bellagio, Lake Como

Jumping on the early morning slow boat to Bellagio time stands still as you gently meander north.  Lush green sprawling hills rise steeply from the banks of the lake and the postcard pretty hamlets are tucked away in every available alcove. It's a film set entrance to Bellagio and this continues through Borgo, the central part of town and the main street Via Garibaldi. It is quintessential Lake Como, with boutiques and restaurants clinging to the narrow picture perfect passage ways and staired alleyways. It's an Instagrammer's dream as we were to find out for ourselves later. 

Pescallo, Lake Como

If you visit Bellagio make sure you head to Pescallo which is a ten minute walk from the town and check out the small fisherman's bays which have incredible lake views of the Grigne Mountains.

At opposite end of Bellagio is the the central apex of Lake Como, the Punta Spartivento - "the point which divides the winds". There are some nice vantage points in between the swanky restaurants and bars to enjoy the panoramic vistas.

Lake Como, Italy

On our second excursion up the Lake we decided to catch the first express (or rapido) hydrofoil of the day. Arriving at the ferry terminal in Como before it had even opened we joined a handful of locals heading off to work on the prompt 0730am boat. This early start meant we arrived in Menaggio which is 37km north of Como, just after 0800am, instead of nearer lunchtime. We would adopt this crowd-beating schedule for the remainder of our trips up the lake.

Menaggio, Lake Como

The beautiful little village resort of Menaggio was pretty much deserted when we arrived. Enjoy a breakfast of of coffee, panini and brioche at Cafe del Pes in the pedestrian friendly Piazza Garibaldi, then explore for an hour in the bliss of  having the place yourself.

Menaggio, Lake Como

Varenna is just 15 minutes from Menaggio on the car ferry. It was still early and the "Walk of Lovers" - a scenic walkway that balances over the water connecting the ferry departure point and the main part of lakeside hamlet was the epitome of romantic solitude and a delight to enjoy in the peace and quiet.

The view from Castella Di Vezio, Varenna, Lake Como

Towering over Varenna is the Castella Di Vezio, which is a quirky, enchanting space, adorned with numerous art displays and a host of exotic birds, all set in gardens bursting with fabulous fauna. It's well worth the steep walk to get up there. There were ghostly shapes all around the castle to make for a marvelously spooky experience...and the views of Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna from the castle parapet were incredible.

Castella Di Vezio, Varenna, Lake Como

Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio, Lake Como

Another early start on the hydrofoil from Como, this time visiting Lenno which is much quieter than the other lake villages. But it warrants a visit for exactly that reason as there was hardly a soul to disturb the serene calm. The lake front restaurants offer sumptuous views and the Piazza XI Febbraio is host to a poignant war memorial. The hamlet is surrounded by luxuriant green vegetation and gardens, and a walk through one of these gardens leads to one of the stars of Lake Como.

Lenno, Lake Como, Italy

Lenno, Lake Como

The main reason most folk head to Lenno is to visit the Villa del Balbianello, a star of the big screen. The Villa and it's grounds were the setting for Planet Naboo in Star War's Episode II - Attack of the Clones (2002) and James Bond visited in Casino Royal (2006). It doesn't open until late morning so bide your time and take in the colourful scenery that Lenno had to offer.

Piazza XI Febbraio, Lenno, Lake Como

We almost didn't visit Villa del Balbianello. Was it over-hyped? How could it surpass all the places we had already seen on the Lake? But it turned out to be the surprise highlight of our trip.

There are some places you visit that exceed all your expectations and this was one of them.

The immaculately manicured gardens, the otherworldly trees of all crazy shapes and sizes, the statues that seem to have just paused in time when you look at them, the views of the Lake and the mountains and the LIGHT! Wow, the light was incredible. The place was simply stunning.

Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como, Italy

And that seems the perfect place to wrap up a brief  run through Lake Como's delights and highlights.

When we returned home a colleague showed us a picture her friend had posted on Instagram. The friend (who we didn't know) had been in Bellagio at the same time as us and had inadvertently captured us strolling through Borgo. 

It's a small world and I hope we all get back to exploring more of it soon.

Captured on Instagram. Bellagio, Italy