Down by the water

Lake Como 

In early September we were lucky enough to fit in a short break to Italy in-between lockdowns and shifting travel corridors. Our 2020 plans of touring northern Italy had been curtailed when the Lombardy region became the epicenter of the first major outbreak in Europe. 

Como, Italy

Six months later and with the situation improved we used our re-arranged flights to consolidate with a short visit to Lake Como, choosing an apartment with a balcony. If local restrictions escalated we would at least have a refuge with a view of the lake. It wasn't a tough decision to travel whilst we were permitted. Six months of lockdown had only heightened our desire to grab onto a vestige of our old normality, and we didn't know when this window of opportunity would open up again.

Villa Olmo, Lake Como

Como is a busy city that sits at the southern tip of Lake Como, a ninety minute train journey away from Malpensa airport via Saronno on the Milpensa express, which is the most convenient way to get there. 

Saronno Station, Italy

There are more beautiful places to stay on the lake and lots of people only briefly stop in Como on route to the more glamorous trio of resorts of Bellagio, Menaggio, and Varenna or any of the large famous hotels that adorn the lake. But Como offers a wonderful lakeside promenade, a huge amount of choice when it comes to eating, you really are spoiled in that department. There's a funicular to take you to amazing views of the lake, a host of ornamental villas and gardens to visit and it even has a lighthouse. It's perfect.

Como Cathedral, Italy

Departing the central train station in Como straight ahead of you is the wonderful lake bound by impossibly green steeped slopes, adorned with intriguing villas and palaces. Head right for lots of lakeside restaurants and bars and the entrance to the funicular. A couple of these restaurants are excellent and some have a rooftop terrace which is perfect spot for watching the evening's passeggiata. But as always a view often compensates for something else, so the best restaurants can be found by heading left from the station to the Piazza Cavour, the square dominated by the impressive of it's time Metropole on Suisse Hotel.

Cernobbio water boat station, Lake Como

From Piazza Cavour you can explore the old town 'Citta Mura' within the city walls and survey the excellent choices for food and wine. There are some wonderful squares and lovely narrow streets to grab a galato and lose yourself in. The Como cathedral is impressive and you can enjoy the gothic features from the numerous surrounding al fresco dining options. Sit outside with a coffee and an Italian pastry, admire the view and watch the world pass by. At the weekends lots of craft and antique market stalls pop up around the many piazzas and along the city walls.

Antique Market, Como

Of course the lake is at the heart of Como and it's celebrated with extensive promenades extending out from the town. It's a very pleasant stroll along the lake front to Villa Olmo which is a huge Como landmark on the lake. On Sunday's the grounds are open to the public, as well as the gardens of nearby Villa del Grumello and Villa Sucota, which the guidebooks describe as lush and fragrant, and they certainly  didn't disappoint. The walk between the villas is described as 'Chilometro della Conoscenza', the kilometer of knowledge and it's a lovely way to meander away a Sunday morning away with the stunning Lake Como forming the perfect backdrop.

Villa Olmo, Lake Como

Carrying on from the trio of villas and gardens, a thirty minute walk along the busy lakeside road will bring you to Cernobbio, a little pretty lakeside town. There you can share a pizza and a well earned cold beer before jumping on the ferry back to Como. A ten minute journey for five euros, excellent value.

Como, Italy

Alessandro Volta (1745-1827), the inventor of the electrical battery is one of Como's most famous sons and you can't get away from his influence around the town. He has his own museum, a huge monument at the entrance to the harbour, a charming piazza named after him and most impressive of all, his own lighthouse!

Como, Italy

The Volta Lighthouse holds a prominent spot high above Como in lush green hills. The quickest and most enjoyable route is to take the seven minute trip up the funicular to the town of Brunate, then walk the 30 minutes to Volta's lighthouse, taking in some great panoramic views of the lake on the way. It is a steep climb and despite the lower September temperatures when we visited it was still humid, so make sure you take some water if you make the trip. But make sure you do as it's a quite wonderful and serene spot above the lake.

Volta Lighthouse, Lake Como

Beyond the city walls the modern side of Como is worth a wander around. There are more functional shops as you would expect and we stumbled across this fantastic retro cinema, now sadly closed. You'll also walk this way on a hike to the Castello Baradello, a watchtower that offers sweeping views of the city and lake. Unfortunately we didn't get the chance to visit this time as we were busy on the lake.

Cinema Astra, Como

Como is a great base to explore the lake, and next time out I'll look at the highlights along the shores of Lake Como, of which there are many. Ciao!

Como, Italy