Vampire Blues

Whitby

"I am longing to be with you, and by the sea, where we can talk together freely and build our castles in the air."

From Dracula by Bram Stoker. Mina writes to Lucy before they visit to the town of Whitby together.

Whitby, the view from Bram Stoker's bench

Following four months of lock down we recently took our first break and paid a short visit to Whitby, a town and coastline we know very well. So a good place to emerge from the controlled environment of our own making to the new Covid world.

The seaside town of Whitby in North Yorkshire is split by the River Esk. The West Coast cliffs overlook a long stretch of sandy beach, whilst the East Cliff is home to the ruined Abbey which dominates the town and can be seem from miles around. 

The Abbey, Whitby

The town of Whitby including the Gothic Abbey and the adjacent Church of St.Mary had a huge influence on the author Bram Stoker and his book 'Dracula'. Stoker wrote of the Abbey "It is the most noble of ruin, of immense size, and full of beautiful and romantic bits; there is a legend that a white lady is seen in one of the windows."

His spine-tingling description sums up the Abbey and it's unique aura wonderfully. But more of the Stoker and the Count connection later.

Ice cream van at the Abbey, Whitby

Exploring Whitby in  the Covid era it became apparent the simple geography of a town can open itself up to increased risk. Even in the curtailed height of the season the narrow streets of Whitby are not conducive to social distancing at peak times. But that's something that can be avoided with a little pre-planning and applying some common sense in choosing your times to wander along the cobbles.

Walking up the iconic 199 steps to the Church and the Abbey on the East Cliff is a must for any visit to Whitby, just do it early or later in the day to take away the worry of keeping socially distant.

Whitby Harbour West and East Lighthouses

Thankfully the huge swathe of Whitby beach starting at the base of the West Cliff stretching all the way to Sandsend offers ample opportunity to take in fresh seas air away from the busy hot spots. Just check the tide times to make sure you can walk the whole two and a half miles on the beach. If you don't fancy dipping your toes the cliff top paths offer some spectacular views along the same route.

    

Beach huts on Whitby Beach

We found most local businesses were excellently prepared, with increased assessments and measures in place to contain the risk posed by the virus. Two stand out examples were the Whitby brewery on the East Cliff which serves it's wonderful beers onsite in great barn conversion area. Try them all!

The Italian restaurant Cosa Nostra is also worth a mention as they made the most of the large indoor space to keep tables comfortably separated. The service navigates the difficult balance between familiarity whilst being risk aware and the food certainly hits the mark.

Whitby Lighthouse

Offering more seclusion and the perfect antidote to lock down are the fantastic walks along the North East coastline. We've walked the 7 miles between the pretty Robin Hood's Bay to Whitby on many occasions and it never fails to blow out the cobwebs and transport you away from the stresses of modern life. There's even a lighthouse to enjoy along the way.

Whitby Lighthouse

It may have been due to the extended period of no travel (unless you are a government adviser) but this walk in particular felt incredibly therapeutic and the people noticeably friendlier and happy to be amongst nature and on the coastal path. With the drama of day to day life spirited away, you can't fail to be buoyed by the views of the sea and seduced by the grandiose cliffs and wonderful greenery. 

Blue plaque, 6 Royal Crescent, Whitby

Whitby is synonymous with Bram Stoker and Dracula.

I've read Dracula many times. It is my favourite book. And only recently I revisited the audio book, so I make no excuses for pointing out a few places of interest for folk who may have a shared interest in  Stoker and his most famous character.

In the summer of 1890 Stoker came to stay at 6 Royal Crescent, a building now recognised with a blue plaque. At the same time three ladies from Hertford were also visiting and their interactions formed the of the basis of the key female protagonists Lucy and Mina in the novel. The Royal Crescent dramatically overlooks the West Cliff and offers stunning views of the Abbey on the opposite cliff top compete with bats dancing around the church of St Mary.

A shipwreck described as a town calamity occurred during Stoker's stay. A mystery ship with no-one on board collided with another vessel resulting in the tragic drowning of two fisherman. Stoker adapted the incident for Dracula's arrival from Transylvania on these shores and lashed the corspe of the captain to the doomed ship's wheel for dramatic horrifying effect.

Bram Stoker's bench, Whitby

The Dracula Society in conjunction with Scarborough Council erected a Victorian-style seat at the south end of Sion Kop on the Wast Cliff. The seat looks directly out across the harbour to the East Cliff and the view encompasses nearly every feature of the town mentioned in the novel.

Even without the reference to the book, the view is stunning and well worth seeking out.

The Abbey, Whitby

Dracula begins as a Gothic horror story with monsters and castles set against a backdrop of terrifying folklore and superstition. The genius of Stoker is dropping this monster first in the idyllic setting of Whitby and then in London, creating a clash of cultures and realities that make for a perfect rise in tension and horror. Love, bravery and honour are all thrown into the mix before ending on a breath-taking chase across Europe to destroy the vampire and free a loved one from the evil blood curse.

And to think it all started in the sedate seaside town on the North Yorkshire coast.

Whitby Harbour entrance

Despite only being a short break, our time away on the coast reaffirmed our love of travel and the enjoyment we derive from escaping normal life and exploring places old and new. 

We will never take it for granted again.