Everything's Gone Green
La Palma
La Palma is the quieter island of the canaries with Lanzarote, Tenerife and Fuerteventura soaking up more of the livelier tourist traffic. But it's lush green forests, rugged terrain, imposing volcanoes and crystal clear night skies make it very popular with nature lovers, walkers and cyclists. Boy, is it rugged, and boy is it green!
Our first base on the island was in the delightful capital city of Santa Cruz de al Palma in the north of the island.
The city is a perfect blend of steep cobbled streets, picturesque squares, pretty buildings famous for their beautiful wooden balconies, a host of decent independent shops and boutiques, a busy port and some great places to eat and drink. Yes, you do need strong legs, and if you didn't have calves of an athlete before you visited you will have after, especially if you don't stay on the sea front. But the steps and inclines back up to your apartment after an evening enjoying the great local food and wine will do you some good in the long run. I promise...
We headed south on our first day of exploring the island.
Once we'd navigated a maze of slip roads out of Santa Cruz it became abundantly clear there is no such thing as a straight road on La Palma. We followed twists and turns, dramatically traversing up and down clinging to roads etched into the central mountains which form the main arterial routes around the island.
The first lighthouse was the Arenas Blancas lighthouse, and despite it's modern, minimalist design we loved it.
It was set near some fisherman's cottages and quaint, brightly coloured holiday homes which made for a nice setting amongst the lava formations and the Atlantic ocean.
Further long the coast at Fuencaliente there was a double whammy of old and new lighthouses adjacent to each other.
There was a modern museum display in the old building proudly demonstrating what La Palma was doing to protect the oceans in the immediate vicinity of the island.
We headed inland to the nearby town of Los Canarios to visit the local winery of Llanovid S. C. L. Bodegas Teneguía and bought some very reasonably priced local wine. The very nice chap at the winery also recommended a local restaurant for a spot of lunch.
Last stop of the day was the volcano at San Antonio. It's a pleasant walk around the rim of the volcano and you'll enjoy some fabulous views of the mountains and sea. It really gives you a sense of the dramatic make-up of the island.
Driving on the hairpin roads of La Palma does take it out of you. So we made sure we broke up the driving days with some exploring on foot. From the center of Santa Cruz following the steep gorge that cuts through the city, it's a steep fifty minute trek up to Real Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves, which translates as the wonderfully named Royal Shrine of Our Lady of the Snows.
It's a very nice vantage spot to look down on the city and get closer to the lush green hills and mountains that surround you everywhere on the island.
In Santa Cruz a very unique and intimate dining experience is to be had at the tiny 14 cover Restaurante Enriclai. It's always booked up and when you visit you'll understand why. The menu was read out to the whole restaurant by the incredibly charming Carmen who's family run the restaurant. Her warmth and attentiveness and the wonderful food made sure this was an experience to remember. It made for a lovely last night in the capital.
After a few great days in Santa Cruz we headed north to our next port of call, and the main reason behind our visit to La Palma. We were celebrating a big birthday, so as a treat we were spending a few days at the exquisite lighthouse at Punta Cumplida. We later discovered that this year's Oscar winners were given a stay in the lighthouse as part of their winner's package. Thankfully we had it to ourselves without any appearances from the cast of Parasite, which may have freaked us out a little.
But first there were a few places to take a look at en route to the lighthouse along the north western coast.
The Mirador de la Playa de Nogales overlooks a fabulous black beach. Yes, the roads to navigate there are not for the faint hearted and there are a lot of steps along the sheer cliffs and overhangs to get to the beach.....but it was worth it! Pure unspoiled pleasure in a dramatic volcanic landscape.
Lots more windy roads heading inland took us to Los Tilos which is a eco rain forest type tourist attraction deep in the very lush green canyon. The waterfalls are quite lovely and it's well worth a detour. It's very popular with hikers if you have the time to take advantage of it's many nature trails.
There was one last stop to take a look at the Charcol Azul which was a very nice outdoor lido pool and bar. It seemed very popular with the locals, but we didn't have time for a dip as we had a lighthouse to get to.
Driving through a huge maze of a banana plantation we eventually reached the Punta Cumplida lighthouse and settled in for a couple of days with the lighthouse and the Atlantic ocean as our only distraction.
There is very little in the way of local amenities but we enjoyed a walk in the early evening sunshine to another lido, the Piscinas de La Fajana. We did return the next day for a bone-numbingly cold swim. Restaurants do deliver to the lighthouse but we came well prepared for our couple of days cut off from the world. Lots of red wine.
As part of the stay you are given the free run of the lighthouse grounds and the tower, which was a dream. There are the luxuries that come with a stay of this type, but the lighthouse and the splendid isolation are the real stars of the show. Sat under a blanket of the clearest night sky, watching the beam of the lighthouse cut through the black velvet with resolute, unerring ease is an experience that can't be bettered.
La Palma is the quieter island of the canaries with Lanzarote, Tenerife and Fuerteventura soaking up more of the livelier tourist traffic. But it's lush green forests, rugged terrain, imposing volcanoes and crystal clear night skies make it very popular with nature lovers, walkers and cyclists. Boy, is it rugged, and boy is it green!
 |
| The black beach. Playa de Nogales, La Palma |
Our first base on the island was in the delightful capital city of Santa Cruz de al Palma in the north of the island.
The city is a perfect blend of steep cobbled streets, picturesque squares, pretty buildings famous for their beautiful wooden balconies, a host of decent independent shops and boutiques, a busy port and some great places to eat and drink. Yes, you do need strong legs, and if you didn't have calves of an athlete before you visited you will have after, especially if you don't stay on the sea front. But the steps and inclines back up to your apartment after an evening enjoying the great local food and wine will do you some good in the long run. I promise...
 |
| Arenas Blancas lighthouse, La Palma |
We headed south on our first day of exploring the island.
Once we'd navigated a maze of slip roads out of Santa Cruz it became abundantly clear there is no such thing as a straight road on La Palma. We followed twists and turns, dramatically traversing up and down clinging to roads etched into the central mountains which form the main arterial routes around the island.
The first lighthouse was the Arenas Blancas lighthouse, and despite it's modern, minimalist design we loved it.
 |
| Arenas Blancas lighthouse, La Palma |
It was set near some fisherman's cottages and quaint, brightly coloured holiday homes which made for a nice setting amongst the lava formations and the Atlantic ocean.
 |
| Arenas Blancas lighthouse, La Palma |
Further long the coast at Fuencaliente there was a double whammy of old and new lighthouses adjacent to each other.
 |
| Old and new lighthouse at Fuencaliente, La Palma |
There was a modern museum display in the old building proudly demonstrating what La Palma was doing to protect the oceans in the immediate vicinity of the island.
 |
| Old and new lighthouse at Fuencaliente, La Palma |
We headed inland to the nearby town of Los Canarios to visit the local winery of Llanovid S. C. L. Bodegas Teneguía and bought some very reasonably priced local wine. The very nice chap at the winery also recommended a local restaurant for a spot of lunch.
 |
| Bodegas Teneguía, La Palma |
Last stop of the day was the volcano at San Antonio. It's a pleasant walk around the rim of the volcano and you'll enjoy some fabulous views of the mountains and sea. It really gives you a sense of the dramatic make-up of the island.
 |
| Walking the rim of the volcano at San Antonio, La Palma |
Driving on the hairpin roads of La Palma does take it out of you. So we made sure we broke up the driving days with some exploring on foot. From the center of Santa Cruz following the steep gorge that cuts through the city, it's a steep fifty minute trek up to Real Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves, which translates as the wonderfully named Royal Shrine of Our Lady of the Snows.
It's a very nice vantage spot to look down on the city and get closer to the lush green hills and mountains that surround you everywhere on the island.
 |
| The bright houses of Santa Cruz de La Palma |
In Santa Cruz a very unique and intimate dining experience is to be had at the tiny 14 cover Restaurante Enriclai. It's always booked up and when you visit you'll understand why. The menu was read out to the whole restaurant by the incredibly charming Carmen who's family run the restaurant. Her warmth and attentiveness and the wonderful food made sure this was an experience to remember. It made for a lovely last night in the capital.
After a few great days in Santa Cruz we headed north to our next port of call, and the main reason behind our visit to La Palma. We were celebrating a big birthday, so as a treat we were spending a few days at the exquisite lighthouse at Punta Cumplida. We later discovered that this year's Oscar winners were given a stay in the lighthouse as part of their winner's package. Thankfully we had it to ourselves without any appearances from the cast of Parasite, which may have freaked us out a little.
 |
| Lighthouse at Punta Cumplid, La Palma |
But first there were a few places to take a look at en route to the lighthouse along the north western coast.
The Mirador de la Playa de Nogales overlooks a fabulous black beach. Yes, the roads to navigate there are not for the faint hearted and there are a lot of steps along the sheer cliffs and overhangs to get to the beach.....but it was worth it! Pure unspoiled pleasure in a dramatic volcanic landscape.
 |
| Pathway to the Playa de Nogales, La Palma |
Lots more windy roads heading inland took us to Los Tilos which is a eco rain forest type tourist attraction deep in the very lush green canyon. The waterfalls are quite lovely and it's well worth a detour. It's very popular with hikers if you have the time to take advantage of it's many nature trails.
 |
| Waterfall at Los Tilos, La Palma |
There was one last stop to take a look at the Charcol Azul which was a very nice outdoor lido pool and bar. It seemed very popular with the locals, but we didn't have time for a dip as we had a lighthouse to get to.
 |
| Lido at Charcol Azul, La Palma |
Driving through a huge maze of a banana plantation we eventually reached the Punta Cumplida lighthouse and settled in for a couple of days with the lighthouse and the Atlantic ocean as our only distraction.
 |
| Punta Cumplida lighthouse, La Palma |
 |
| Punta Cumplida lighthouse, La Palma |
There is very little in the way of local amenities but we enjoyed a walk in the early evening sunshine to another lido, the Piscinas de La Fajana. We did return the next day for a bone-numbingly cold swim. Restaurants do deliver to the lighthouse but we came well prepared for our couple of days cut off from the world. Lots of red wine.
 |
| Piscinas de La Fajana, La Palma |
As part of the stay you are given the free run of the lighthouse grounds and the tower, which was a dream. There are the luxuries that come with a stay of this type, but the lighthouse and the splendid isolation are the real stars of the show. Sat under a blanket of the clearest night sky, watching the beam of the lighthouse cut through the black velvet with resolute, unerring ease is an experience that can't be bettered.
 |
| Punta Cumplida lighthouse, La Palma |
Great set of photos and post. The modern lighthouse is a minimalist joy. And somewhat phallic.
ReplyDeleteThank you. I did struggle with the the description of that lighthouse!
ReplyDelete