Don't worry about the government

New York
There isn't much you can write about New York that hasn't already been written. But as this wasn't our first time in NYC we did to do a few things that wouldn't necessarily be the top of most people's Manhattan itinerary, and may be of some interest.

View from the Empire State Building, New York

Whether that was checking out David Bowie's old neighborhood or going in search of iconic seaside theme parks in the middle of January, or even heading further afield to the riches of Long Island and it's famous lighthouses. There maybe something here that might not have immediately sprung to mind if you are planning a trip stateside.
And we revisited a few old stalwarts including one that threw up a very pleasant surprise after were underwhelmed by the new fella on the block.

Street art, NewYork

So first things first. Where to stay?
Well, we split our time in New York between the Lower East Side, Manhattan and Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Both were fantastic places to stay but offered a very different New York experience. The Lower East Side is a busy, bustling neighborhood packed with bars, restaurants and great shops. A special shout out to the Library Pub which plays projections of B-movies in it's dark recesses against backdrop of great music and serves a mean pint of Brooklyn Lager.

Christmas in New York

Our hotel on the Lower East Side was on Ludlow Street and opposite the Katz Deli of 'When Harry Met Sally' fame. We never saw a queue of less than a hundred people lined up waiting for to get their chops round one of their famous pastrami extravaganzas. So if sandwiches consisting of your weekly calorific allowance are for you, get there very early or very late.
There are other deli's if patience isn't your strong point.
At the weekends the area around Ludlow Street comes alive with clubs and nightlight. The place was rocking, if you like to rock past the late hour of 11pm that is!

Lower East Side, Manhattan, New York

One train stop under the Hudson from Manhattan is the subway statiion at Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg and you'll find yourself in a different world. The frantic hustle and bustle and canyon-like skyscraper lined streets of Manhattan are gone. In it's place, brownstone houses, bohemian hipsters, a brewery, boutique shops and pop up flea markets. It's a much more laid back atmosphere than across the river and a nice release after a few days in the busy city. But more of Brooklyn later.......

Manhattan as seen from a Brooklyn flea market

Sight seeing. Lets start with the big hitters. What's the best viewing platform of the main three contenders from the Empire State Building, the Top of the Rock and the new One World Observatory?

Empire State Building, New York

Before this trip to New York I would have suggested people opt for the Top of The Rock Observatory in the Rockefeller Centre which has great indoor and outdoor viewing areas. The outdoor area on the 70th floor is enclosed only by glass which provides a fantastic unobstructed view of New York's most famous building, the Empire State. There is another viewing level where you come face to face with the building's mast and antennae. It really makes you feel like you are touching the sky!

One World Trade Centre, New York

On this trip we visited the newly opened One World Observation deck on the site of the twin towers. From the Lower East Side it makes for an interesting morning walk through Little Italy and Chinatown to get there. The observatory itself was good fun and the video wall reveal was very impressive but the observation deck itself was all enclosed which stifled the experience. The supplied ipads that track the Manhattan skyline are a nice touch but it felt a little corporate and a stage managed experience.

Top of the Rock 2011

We hadn't planned to go up the Empire State Building on this trip, but we had a free morning and the One World Observation tower had been a disappointment. So we bought tickets to visit the new museum section, the famous 86th floor outdoor viewing platform and the new 102nd floor observatory. It turned out to be a highlight of our trip. Our early start and time of year meant there were no queues and we walked through to the lifts without seeing another visitor.

Empire State Building 2020

The new museum experience in the Empire State was a hoot, the King Kong section is especially good fun. A trip in the art deco elevator and you'll find yourself walking out into the Manhattan air 86 floors up. There is something about the outdoor heated viewing platform, the art deco railings and unique views that transcends a normal tourist experience and it becomes enchanting and romantic. You feel part of the building and plug directly into the unique history of the city.
The new circular glass observatory at the 102nd floor is a nice addition and you really are near the top of the building now, the viewing platform on the 86th floor looks a long way down from here.
So don't miss the Empire State and if you get the chance to visit two, head for the Top of the Rock.  Just go early or late in the day to enjoy both without the crowds.

Empire State Building, New York

You'll have worked up a big appetite after the fresh start in the open air so treat your self to brunch in one of the many diners in the nearby Murray Hill district. Enjoy choosing from the endless combinations of eggs and potatoes and of course, coffee on tap.

Chrysler Building, New York

You're slap bang in the middle of of Midtown so in easy walking distance of a few of the other must-sees in Manhattan that don't cost a single dollar. Check out the foyer of the beautiful Chrysler Building, the magnificence of Grand Central Station, then wander down 42nd street and bathe in the neon glow of Times Square.

Chrysler Building,  42nd Street, New York

With all the famous sites of New York it's easy to overlook the abundance of lighthouses that have historically safely guided sailors from the Atlantic Ocean through to the Hudson River.
A good place to start is the National Lighthouse Museum on Staten Island. The famous ferry is free, offers the best views of Manhattan skyline and you'll pass a host of lighthouses on the way including the most famous one in the world, Lady Liberty. What's not to love?
The museum is a short walk from the Staten Island ferry terminal and we were lucky enough to be given a lovely, fact-filled tour by Bob, one of the volunteer curators at the museum. If you love lighthouses you have to visit.

National Lighthouse Museum, Staten Island, New York

Statue of Liberty in the mist, New York

The trip to the lighthouse museum set us in good stead for our visit to the Statue of Liberty the next day. Jumping on the downtown train to Battery Park we joined the long procession of security, ticketing and shepherding to get the first ferry of the morning to Liberty island.

Liberty's original lamp. Statue of Liberty Museum, Liberty Island, New York

The new Museum celebrating the history of the statue is excellent and is home to the original lamp, which is a delight. There is an understandable high level of security throughout the island, especially around access the pedestal and the crown. But we found all the staff very friendly, especially the ones inside the statue itself which made for a very pleasant experience.
"Take a look up" joked the security guard at the base of the 354 steps (20 stories) of the curved staircase to get to the crown.

"Take a look up". Staircase to the crown inside the Statue of Liberty, New York

The trip to the crown of Lady Liberty isn't for the faint hearted. It's a tight, claustrophobic journey inside the metal work holding together the frame of the statue.  And the limited, cramped view of Lady Liberty's armpit from the crown may not be the best, but it does feel like a once in a lifetime experience. At the suggestion of the genial stir-crazy guards based up in the crown we stroked Liberty's hair, which is surreal if you stop to think about where you actually are!
Do be prepared for a serious case of jelly legs by the time you get back down to terra firma, there are a lot of steps to get up and down but it's absolutely worth it.

More tales from the city next time as we head across the river and pay a trip to the seaside.