Vampire
Polignano a Mare
A two week drive around the boot of Italy!
Whitewashed hill towns rising out of nowhere, olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see, hundreds of miles of wonderful coastline hugging the Adriatic and Ionian seas, bustling port towns, breath-taking views, simple mouthwatering food, great wine, an ancient settlement reborn to be the European Capital of Culture, university cities taking the mantel of the Florence of the South, some quite bonkers conical shaped dwellings and of course, lighthouses.
Welcome to Puglia.......
My next series of blogs will focus on some tips and photographs from our journey through Puglia and the southern tip of the Salento Peninsula.
We flew into Bari and picked up a nippy Renault Clio hire car which was the perfect size for a couple's luggage yet small enough to navigate some of the tiny streets and lanes we encountered. It only took 30 seconds (still in the rental car park) to get beeped by another driver. Such is life in Puglia. More on driving in Southern Italy next time.
First stop was the town of Polignono a Mare, a not too stressful 30 minutes drive from Bari.
We first came across Polignano a Mare watching the 2014 Italian romantic horror film 'Spring'. The star of the film is the clifftop town. The couple's vampiric story unfolds against a backdrop of atmospheric old town streets and dramatic vistas where the buildings grow out of the limestone cliffs and totter precariously above the crashing waves.
Nothing exemplifies the grand majesty of the town more than the Ponte di Polignano.
This main bridge reveals a series of walkways and steps that eventually lead to the dramatic and very popular beach. It is a sight that you will return to on a daily basis during your stay here as the changing light and weather makes it's appearance so different from day to day.
You can easily while away a day exploring the town and walking the sea front wall on the top of the cliffs. The old town is a joy to explore, and there are an abundance of restaurants and bars. I ate some great fresh fish dishes and there were always vegetarian options for my wife. The orecchiette pasta 'ears' are a speciality of the region, and they form the base of many simple and tasteful dishes. The area of Puglia is historically poor so the food has developed from a peasant diet which was basic but packed full of flavour. A lot of restaurants also offered a carafe of local house red that we love. Again, cheap and cheerful but very quoffable.
The only thing we missed out on in Polignano a Mare was a boat trip to take a look at the town and cliffs from the sea. Unfortunately the weather was a little varied and put paid to that excursion. But it was definitely worth the walk out of the town to the harbour at San Vito where the boats leave from.
The town is a good base for exploring Puglia and we managed to pack quite a few sights into a one day excursion. Heading off in the morning we drove to Alberobello which is where you'll find the famous Trulli village. It's home to over a thousand peculiar hobbit-like dwelling that are found all over Puglia. Alberobello did have a slight theme-park feel to it, lots of tourists and coach trips. But a necessary stop when in this part of the world.
In stark contrast, next up was the baroque town of Martina Franca, which is a lovely stop to walk round and grab some lunch. On the way in and out of Martina Franca, as we drove through the area of Taranto we discovered an abundance of Trulli houses and it made for a much more natural experience than Alberobello.
The white washed city of Ostuni rises out of an ocean of olive groves.
It is a truly wondrous sight that will take your breath away. There is ample parking at the base of the city and wondering around the city for an hour you'll find more than a few great vantage points.
At this point I should thank the Venetian Historian Francesco Da Mosta, who's BBC travel series a few years back was a great help to us picking out our stops in and around Southern Italy. That and my wife's meticulous research!
It had been a busy day of excursions so far but there was still time to return to the coast and visit the first lighthouse of our trip. The very pretty lighthouse in the quiet seaside town of Torre Canne made for an excellent end to our day out and ultimately our time in Polignano a Mare.
Next stop, the Florence of the South, Lecce.
A two week drive around the boot of Italy!
Whitewashed hill towns rising out of nowhere, olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see, hundreds of miles of wonderful coastline hugging the Adriatic and Ionian seas, bustling port towns, breath-taking views, simple mouthwatering food, great wine, an ancient settlement reborn to be the European Capital of Culture, university cities taking the mantel of the Florence of the South, some quite bonkers conical shaped dwellings and of course, lighthouses.
Welcome to Puglia.......
 |
| Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy |
My next series of blogs will focus on some tips and photographs from our journey through Puglia and the southern tip of the Salento Peninsula.
We flew into Bari and picked up a nippy Renault Clio hire car which was the perfect size for a couple's luggage yet small enough to navigate some of the tiny streets and lanes we encountered. It only took 30 seconds (still in the rental car park) to get beeped by another driver. Such is life in Puglia. More on driving in Southern Italy next time.
First stop was the town of Polignono a Mare, a not too stressful 30 minutes drive from Bari.
 |
| The limestone cliffs of Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy |
We first came across Polignano a Mare watching the 2014 Italian romantic horror film 'Spring'. The star of the film is the clifftop town. The couple's vampiric story unfolds against a backdrop of atmospheric old town streets and dramatic vistas where the buildings grow out of the limestone cliffs and totter precariously above the crashing waves.
 |
| Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy |
Nothing exemplifies the grand majesty of the town more than the Ponte di Polignano.
This main bridge reveals a series of walkways and steps that eventually lead to the dramatic and very popular beach. It is a sight that you will return to on a daily basis during your stay here as the changing light and weather makes it's appearance so different from day to day.
 |
| Ponte di Polignano, Puglia, Italy |
You can easily while away a day exploring the town and walking the sea front wall on the top of the cliffs. The old town is a joy to explore, and there are an abundance of restaurants and bars. I ate some great fresh fish dishes and there were always vegetarian options for my wife. The orecchiette pasta 'ears' are a speciality of the region, and they form the base of many simple and tasteful dishes. The area of Puglia is historically poor so the food has developed from a peasant diet which was basic but packed full of flavour. A lot of restaurants also offered a carafe of local house red that we love. Again, cheap and cheerful but very quoffable.
 |
| Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy |
The only thing we missed out on in Polignano a Mare was a boat trip to take a look at the town and cliffs from the sea. Unfortunately the weather was a little varied and put paid to that excursion. But it was definitely worth the walk out of the town to the harbour at San Vito where the boats leave from.
The town is a good base for exploring Puglia and we managed to pack quite a few sights into a one day excursion. Heading off in the morning we drove to Alberobello which is where you'll find the famous Trulli village. It's home to over a thousand peculiar hobbit-like dwelling that are found all over Puglia. Alberobello did have a slight theme-park feel to it, lots of tourists and coach trips. But a necessary stop when in this part of the world.
 |
| Alberobello, Puglia, Italy |
In stark contrast, next up was the baroque town of Martina Franca, which is a lovely stop to walk round and grab some lunch. On the way in and out of Martina Franca, as we drove through the area of Taranto we discovered an abundance of Trulli houses and it made for a much more natural experience than Alberobello.
 |
| Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy |
 |
| Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy |
The white washed city of Ostuni rises out of an ocean of olive groves.
It is a truly wondrous sight that will take your breath away. There is ample parking at the base of the city and wondering around the city for an hour you'll find more than a few great vantage points.
 |
| Ostuni, Puglia, Italy |
At this point I should thank the Venetian Historian Francesco Da Mosta, who's BBC travel series a few years back was a great help to us picking out our stops in and around Southern Italy. That and my wife's meticulous research!
 |
| Ostuni, Puglia, Italy |
 |
| Ostuni, Puglia, Italy |
It had been a busy day of excursions so far but there was still time to return to the coast and visit the first lighthouse of our trip. The very pretty lighthouse in the quiet seaside town of Torre Canne made for an excellent end to our day out and ultimately our time in Polignano a Mare.
 |
| Faro di Torre Canne, Puglia, Italy |
Next stop, the Florence of the South, Lecce.
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