The little boy in a castle

Lisbon
We've visited Lisbon twice in recent years and covered a lot of ground by foot, bicycle, funicular, elevadors, tram, train and metro. Lisbon is a colourful and vibrant city with lots to see and do, and eat and drink! Over the next few posts I'll look at things to do in and around the city and a few nice places to visit that are slightly further afield.

The boy and the Castle. Belem Tower, Lisbon, Portugal

Getting around the city on the various travel permutations available to you is very easy with the Lisboa travel card, which you can buy online before your trip. Some options offer entry to some museums and galleries, so decide where you want to go and how, and pick up a card before you go.
And the airport is a very reachable 30 minutes on the metro from the city centre, which makes Lisbon perfect for the weekend break when you want to get exploring as soon as you land.

Funicular, Lisbon, Portugal

You're more than likely kick start your Lisbon experience in Baixa which is the most tourist-centric and central neighborhood in Lisbon. It's where you'll find the majority of hotels and the main shopping area, a lot of which is pedestrianised. This area is also where you'll find (as you head towards the River Tagus) the very pretty Praça do Comércio, which is a large waterside public square lined with outdoor cafes & shopping venues, and a focal point for the city.

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon, Portugal

Along with the square, the other must-see sight in Baxia is the Elevador de Santa Justa, which connects Baixa with the higher-up district of Chiado. The elevador has a viewing platform, but be warned, it's not one for folk with a fear of heights. I only looked up at the iron sprial staircase and that was enough to send me scurrying back down to earth in search of a pastel de nata and a coffee.
The famous custard tarts of Portugal are incredible I should add, and the tart and coffee combination is a daily essential for any Portugal trip.

 Elevador de Santa Justa, Lisbon, Portugal

As you would gather from any city that requires an Elevador or a series of funiculars, Lisbon is good for your calves. It is a very hilly city.
But as a result there are a plethora of fabulous miradors that take advantage of the steep inclines and vantage points and these are all easily identified on any local map.
They make good strategic points to head for as a nice way to familairise yourself with the layout of the city. They are all reachable on foot, or by tram should your legs require a breather at any point. The of views Lisbon's beautiful pastel coloured rooftops and buildings are beautifully framed by the dominating São Jorge Castle and the sleek Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge.
More often or not you'll find some kind of refreshment available at the miradors, but if you want a bar with a view, check out the Park bar which can be found on the top level of a car park believe it or not. It's a nice way to spend an hour with a cold beer.

View from the Park bar, Lisbon, Portugal

The famous district of Bairro Alto can be a little quiet during the day, but looks can be deceptive. At night the closed facades open and the place comes alive with an overwhelming choice of eateries, bars and nightclubs. Things start late here, and go on late!

The colourful Bairro Alto, Lisbon, Portugal

The number 28 tram is a popular line that will give take you on a nice tour of the castle district. It's another area blessed with fabulous miradors and vantage points of the city that will have you hopping on and off the tram as it winds its way through the cobbled streets.
Walking back down from the São Jorge Castle you'll pass through Alfama which is an authentic fishing neighborhood and is where Fado (the traditional somber music of Portugal) was created. And again, a walk around here at night is very different experience as small Fado bars and tiny restaurants which appear to be someone's living room, open up and the place comes alive.

Street art, Lisbon, Portugal

A short walk along the river from from the Praça do Comércio is the Time Out market, which is a delightful collection of modern stalls offering everything from kitchenware to local artist's work. It's all centered around a huge modern open plan food hall, offering a huge variety of fresh produce and great food to choose from.

Opposite the market is the Cais do Sodre train station, which is the busy, bustling conduit to escape up and down the coast. Cais do Sodre itself is an up and coming area of emerging businesses and waterfront developments. It's well worth a walk round before you catch the train or tram to Belem. There is some great local building art on display here, as there is all over Lisbon.

Seafront chic, Cais do Sodre. Lisbon, Portugal

Any visit to Lisbon has to include a trip to Belem. Catch the train from Cais do Sodre or jump on the number 15 tram and you'll be in Belem in 10 minutes. The waterfront is beautiful with a lighthouse and the impressive Monument of Discoveries within a short walk of each other.  The monument celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery of the 15th and 16th centuries when ships departed from here to explore and trade with the world. But the crowning glory of Belem, and one of the symbols of Lisbon is the incredible Tower Of Belem which looks like it is straight from a unbelievable fantasy tale.

Monument of the Discoveries, Lisbon, Portugal

Belem Lighthouse, Lisbon, Portugal

Another two wonderful places in Belem are the Jerónimos Monastery and the Berardo Museum of Modern and contemporary art. Check out the beautiful gardens and symmetry of the Monastery's gothic architecture then treat yourself to some original pop art by Warhol.
By now you will have earned another treat and luckily the origin and home of the Portuguese custard is to be found in Belem at the delicious Pastéis de Belém. Join the queues (they move quicker than you think) for a wonderful tart!

Jerónimos Monastery, Lisbon, Portugal

And finally a couple of slightly different foodie recommendations.
There are so many choices to eat out in Lisbon, it can be overwhelming but thankfully also difficult to go too far wrong. Casonva is a waterfront Italian restaurant, a little bit off the beaten track just beyond Alfama. It's open canteen tables and wood-fired pizza, so makes for it's a quick and delicious thin pizza lunch. It gets very busy and you can't book. So try lunch and or get there very early.
We also chanced across a fish hall come bar run by men dressed as monks, the Cervejaria Trindade and proceeded to get very drunk on dark ale. I hope it's as much fun sober!

Next time, we journey out of the city to the beautiful Cascais.

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