Out Of Time
Venice
Francesco da Mosto is an Italian Historian. A Venetian born and bred who's family heart is ingrained in the rich tapestry of the city. In fact, in his wonderful BBC series from 2004 he credits a long distant relative with giving Lord Byron a dose of the clap. His enthusiasm and passion for Venice is a joy to behold and I thoroughly recommend anyone contemplating visiting the city to watch his excellent four part BBC series 'Francesco's Venice'.
The series gives a concise, enlightening journey through Venice's history. From the refugees fleeing Attila the Hun and establishing the city in the lagoon, to the daring Venetian raid on Constantinople which established the city's control of the most lucrative trade routes in the world. From the sacking of Venice by Napoleon to the new influx of writers and artists (Byron, Dickens, Turner) drawn by the city's decaying beauty, only for their interest to herald a new age of sightseers and tourism that are, at the same time the saviour and scourge of Venice.
Any modern tourist destination faces the same problems of identity and capacity. The fine line between self sufficiency and a dependency on tourism is a delicate balancing act. I am no doubt part of this problem, and I don't have an answer.
I can only tour the world with a resolve to respect local traditions and hope that in embracing the enthusiasm that someone such as Francesco shares for their own city, you can earn their respect for wanting to visit and enjoy what they enjoy.
And his home town is one of the most beautiful in the world!
Our second full day in Venice, and it was cold! Especially so on the rooftops where we started our day. We enjoyed the wonderful views of the Grand Canal from the T Fondaco Rooftop Terrace (free, just book ahead) which is on top of an upmarket department store a stones throw from the Canal.
As we wandered along the Grand Canal past the Scalzi Bridge towards the train station and glass Constitution Bridge (a very slippy fellow!), the contrasting sides of the city's plight to survive was plain to see. The local fish market was thriving, and a great place to visit. But for every local shop there were a half a dozen themed shops selling Venetian masks and dolls.
Thankfully a few detours later on in the day and we were able to see a little bit beyond the tourist trappings of the city, and we found some great boutique shops and places to eat that were a little off the mainstream.
In the west of the city we is the train station, which is also where the road bridge arrives at the city - complete with the means of self-destruction should Venice decide to become independent again. We saw our first car in a few days which was a bit crazy. A short walk from the station is the charming area of Cannaregio. This was the first Jewish ghetto in the world, the old Italian world for forge being ghetto, and there was a forge here. There are lots of antique and second hand goods shops in this area to browse.
Santa Croce is slightly off-the-beaten-track, and has a nice, local thing going on. We were headed to a La Tecia Vegana, dubbed a vegan restaurant 'in the suburbs'. It was a lovely find and we enjoyed an excellent lunch of houmous and veggie burger with a nice glass of house red wine.
We've kept our eye out for several key 'Don't Look Now' film landmarks, and shouldn't have been surprised to find most things haven't really changed in Venice since the 1970s - How could they develop?! In Santa Croce the church of Parrocchia di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli was being restored in the film but unfortunately on this occasion we couldn't take a look inside.
Catching a water taxi from Santa Marta to the Arsenal were treated to great views of the city, which made up for the bitterly cold wind.
The Venetian Arsenal is a base of former shipyards and armouries and is a past reminder of the Venetian Republic's naval power. The Greek influenced classical entrance to the Arsenal contrasts with the Gothic architecture dominating Venice, but it's indicative of the Venetians absorbing different cultures and influences as it established itself across the Mediterranean as a major power.
A gateway out of place and out of time, like Venice itself.
From Lagoon shore near the Arsenal the views are incredible. I think it offers the best vista of the city and the lagoon front in all it's glory. St Marks, the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute in Dorsoduro, and Doges Place all silhouetted against the early evening sky.
And the light makes it look magical.
The vibrant area of Castello is crammed with lots of boutique shops and well worth a look. It's also home to another church from the film. The Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli and the adjacent classic bridge of the same name looks exactly as it did nearly half a century ago, when Donald Sutherland crossed it, pursuing his demons.
So, a short round up of some places in Venice that are a little off the main tourists routes.
My next post, and the last one on Venice for the time being, will cover the essential trip out to the northern islands of the Lagoon to see where the first settlers arrived in the fifth century.
Francesco da Mosto is an Italian Historian. A Venetian born and bred who's family heart is ingrained in the rich tapestry of the city. In fact, in his wonderful BBC series from 2004 he credits a long distant relative with giving Lord Byron a dose of the clap. His enthusiasm and passion for Venice is a joy to behold and I thoroughly recommend anyone contemplating visiting the city to watch his excellent four part BBC series 'Francesco's Venice'.
 |
| The Grand Canal, Venice, Italy. |
The series gives a concise, enlightening journey through Venice's history. From the refugees fleeing Attila the Hun and establishing the city in the lagoon, to the daring Venetian raid on Constantinople which established the city's control of the most lucrative trade routes in the world. From the sacking of Venice by Napoleon to the new influx of writers and artists (Byron, Dickens, Turner) drawn by the city's decaying beauty, only for their interest to herald a new age of sightseers and tourism that are, at the same time the saviour and scourge of Venice.
 |
| Venetian Gothic, Venice, Italy. |
Any modern tourist destination faces the same problems of identity and capacity. The fine line between self sufficiency and a dependency on tourism is a delicate balancing act. I am no doubt part of this problem, and I don't have an answer.
I can only tour the world with a resolve to respect local traditions and hope that in embracing the enthusiasm that someone such as Francesco shares for their own city, you can earn their respect for wanting to visit and enjoy what they enjoy.
And his home town is one of the most beautiful in the world!
 |
| Views from the T Fondaco Rooftop Terrace |
Our second full day in Venice, and it was cold! Especially so on the rooftops where we started our day. We enjoyed the wonderful views of the Grand Canal from the T Fondaco Rooftop Terrace (free, just book ahead) which is on top of an upmarket department store a stones throw from the Canal.
As we wandered along the Grand Canal past the Scalzi Bridge towards the train station and glass Constitution Bridge (a very slippy fellow!), the contrasting sides of the city's plight to survive was plain to see. The local fish market was thriving, and a great place to visit. But for every local shop there were a half a dozen themed shops selling Venetian masks and dolls.
Thankfully a few detours later on in the day and we were able to see a little bit beyond the tourist trappings of the city, and we found some great boutique shops and places to eat that were a little off the mainstream.
 |
| Fish Market, Venice, Italy. |
 |
| Venice, Italy |
In the west of the city we is the train station, which is also where the road bridge arrives at the city - complete with the means of self-destruction should Venice decide to become independent again. We saw our first car in a few days which was a bit crazy. A short walk from the station is the charming area of Cannaregio. This was the first Jewish ghetto in the world, the old Italian world for forge being ghetto, and there was a forge here. There are lots of antique and second hand goods shops in this area to browse.
 |
| The Jewish ghetto of Cannaregio, Venice, Italy. |
Santa Croce is slightly off-the-beaten-track, and has a nice, local thing going on. We were headed to a La Tecia Vegana, dubbed a vegan restaurant 'in the suburbs'. It was a lovely find and we enjoyed an excellent lunch of houmous and veggie burger with a nice glass of house red wine.
We've kept our eye out for several key 'Don't Look Now' film landmarks, and shouldn't have been surprised to find most things haven't really changed in Venice since the 1970s - How could they develop?! In Santa Croce the church of Parrocchia di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli was being restored in the film but unfortunately on this occasion we couldn't take a look inside.
Catching a water taxi from Santa Marta to the Arsenal were treated to great views of the city, which made up for the bitterly cold wind.
The Venetian Arsenal is a base of former shipyards and armouries and is a past reminder of the Venetian Republic's naval power. The Greek influenced classical entrance to the Arsenal contrasts with the Gothic architecture dominating Venice, but it's indicative of the Venetians absorbing different cultures and influences as it established itself across the Mediterranean as a major power.
A gateway out of place and out of time, like Venice itself.
 |
| Venetian Arsenal, Venice, Italy |
From Lagoon shore near the Arsenal the views are incredible. I think it offers the best vista of the city and the lagoon front in all it's glory. St Marks, the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute in Dorsoduro, and Doges Place all silhouetted against the early evening sky.
And the light makes it look magical.
 |
| View from the Arsenal,Venice, Italy. |
The vibrant area of Castello is crammed with lots of boutique shops and well worth a look. It's also home to another church from the film. The Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli and the adjacent classic bridge of the same name looks exactly as it did nearly half a century ago, when Donald Sutherland crossed it, pursuing his demons.
 |
| Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Venice, Italy. |
My next post, and the last one on Venice for the time being, will cover the essential trip out to the northern islands of the Lagoon to see where the first settlers arrived in the fifth century.
Comments
Post a Comment