The Great Escape
The Almalfi Coast
The road between Sorrento and Almalfi is one of the most beautiful drives in the world.
But I wouldn't drive it.
The views are much better enjoyed as a passenger than as a driver trying to navigate the twists and turns of the perilously perched, narrow road cut into the cliffs of the Italian coast.
There are several key places to take in along the Almalfi stretch of coast, all easily reachable from Sorrento. A couple of day trips to Positano, Almalfi Town and Ravello will ensure you enjoy all the best vantage points of the coast and soak up the atmosphere of the busy towns.
We opted to discover the famous coastline via the busy local bus service. They come with driver and wingman, who's job it is to navigate a safe passage through the tiny tunnels and crazy blind corners when one bus meets another bus head-on. When this happens (often) wingmen jump out and so begins 10 minutes of delicate negotiation of the small buses (which now seem very large) backwards and forwards around the tight bends, at the same time as trying to not get mowed down by scooters.
Amalfi town is fabulous to look at, all white-washed buildings leading to an historic centre based around the Piazza del Duomo. From there you are compelled to walk up the stunning steps the Almalfi Cathedral for a view of the bustling square.
On a guide book tip, we headed through the crowds and and found Da Meme, a restaurant typical of Amalfi town, hidden amongst the maze of narrow back streets. It was apparently an old monastery, but it was cool and offered a welcome respite from the swarming hoards. The majority of modern -day holiday stresses can be resolved by a cold beer and a plate of mussels in pasta.
Most visitors to Almalfi Town also head to the the hills to take a look around Ravello and we were no exception. Ravello is an historic town famous for maybe the finer things in life. It hosts music concerts in a theatre dramatically perched on the cliffs, and is home to a series of exclusive hotels and Villas. They all boast ornate gardens and terraces, offering vertigo-inducing views of the Mediterranean.
But you have to pay for the privilege of most of the views, which on this occasion we decided not too, thanks very much.
Another day and another very popular destination on the Almalfi coast is the instagram favourite of Positano, which looks quite incredible from the coastal road in it's spectacular position clinging to steep cliffs. But what's it like up close?
We'd decided to try and beat the tourists and get to Positano as early as possible, so were on the first bus from Sorrento and were making our descent into Positano an hour later.
From the coastal road you walk down hundreds of steps through the maze of shops and restaurants heading to the waterfront. In itself these small, quirky streets make for a beautiful ambiance, but as you get closer to the sea there's little scope for wandering and there is no getting away from the fact that you are a tourist in a tourist mecca.
The beachfront is clogged with private lido areas and exclusive farms of sun umbrellas for hire.
It was the sun-worshipers dream, which is something we're not.
And in the height of summer at least, we decided Positano looked better from far away.
So finished our two week tour of the Bay of Naples, and despite visiting in the peak times we had a wonderful experience. We'll definitely be back out of season to explore some more of this fabulous coastline.
The road between Sorrento and Almalfi is one of the most beautiful drives in the world.
But I wouldn't drive it.
The views are much better enjoyed as a passenger than as a driver trying to navigate the twists and turns of the perilously perched, narrow road cut into the cliffs of the Italian coast.
There are several key places to take in along the Almalfi stretch of coast, all easily reachable from Sorrento. A couple of day trips to Positano, Almalfi Town and Ravello will ensure you enjoy all the best vantage points of the coast and soak up the atmosphere of the busy towns.
 |
| Positano, Almalfi Coast, Italy |
We opted to discover the famous coastline via the busy local bus service. They come with driver and wingman, who's job it is to navigate a safe passage through the tiny tunnels and crazy blind corners when one bus meets another bus head-on. When this happens (often) wingmen jump out and so begins 10 minutes of delicate negotiation of the small buses (which now seem very large) backwards and forwards around the tight bends, at the same time as trying to not get mowed down by scooters.
Amalfi town is fabulous to look at, all white-washed buildings leading to an historic centre based around the Piazza del Duomo. From there you are compelled to walk up the stunning steps the Almalfi Cathedral for a view of the bustling square.
 |
| Almalfi Town, Almalfi Coast, Italy |
On a guide book tip, we headed through the crowds and and found Da Meme, a restaurant typical of Amalfi town, hidden amongst the maze of narrow back streets. It was apparently an old monastery, but it was cool and offered a welcome respite from the swarming hoards. The majority of modern -day holiday stresses can be resolved by a cold beer and a plate of mussels in pasta.
 |
| Almalfi Town, Almalfi Coast, Italy |
Most visitors to Almalfi Town also head to the the hills to take a look around Ravello and we were no exception. Ravello is an historic town famous for maybe the finer things in life. It hosts music concerts in a theatre dramatically perched on the cliffs, and is home to a series of exclusive hotels and Villas. They all boast ornate gardens and terraces, offering vertigo-inducing views of the Mediterranean.
But you have to pay for the privilege of most of the views, which on this occasion we decided not too, thanks very much.
 |
| Ravello, Almalfi Coast |
Another day and another very popular destination on the Almalfi coast is the instagram favourite of Positano, which looks quite incredible from the coastal road in it's spectacular position clinging to steep cliffs. But what's it like up close?
We'd decided to try and beat the tourists and get to Positano as early as possible, so were on the first bus from Sorrento and were making our descent into Positano an hour later.
From the coastal road you walk down hundreds of steps through the maze of shops and restaurants heading to the waterfront. In itself these small, quirky streets make for a beautiful ambiance, but as you get closer to the sea there's little scope for wandering and there is no getting away from the fact that you are a tourist in a tourist mecca.
 |
| Positano, Almalfi Coast, Italy |
The beachfront is clogged with private lido areas and exclusive farms of sun umbrellas for hire.
It was the sun-worshipers dream, which is something we're not.
And in the height of summer at least, we decided Positano looked better from far away.
So finished our two week tour of the Bay of Naples, and despite visiting in the peak times we had a wonderful experience. We'll definitely be back out of season to explore some more of this fabulous coastline.
 |
| Sorrento, Almalfi Coast, Italy |
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