A Sunset

The final leg of our New Zealand odyssey was upon us, and we had saved one of the best sights till last. We began the day saying goodbye to Lake Tekapo for the last big driving day of both the holiday and my ambitious itinerary. Thankfully the weather had finally got the memo. The clouds and rain had completely vanished overnight, replaced by stonking blue skies stretching from horizon to horizon.

Mount Sunday, aka Edoras from LOTR

The drive from Lake Tekapo to Mount Sunday Lookout Point, better known to most people as the kingdom fortress of Edoras from The Lord of the Rings took around two and a half hours. The scenery made the time disappear, although the final half hour along a dusty gravel road slowed things down somewhat. The route took us through the vast Canterbury High Country, an enormous landscape of braided rivers, sheep stations and glacially carved valleys lying in the shadow of the Southern Alps. It is a part of New Zealand that feels almost impossibly open, with distances and skies that make Britain seem rather cramped by comparison.

Edoras

And then Edoras appeared. Or rather Mount Sunday, the isolated rocky hill that stood in for the capital of Rohan in Peter Jackson's films. Rising from the middle of the Rangitata Valley and surrounded by snow-covered mountains, it was the most spectacular location we had visited on the trip so far. It surpassed every expectation. Photographs simply do not do it justice, so here's a short video.

Naturally, we climbed to the top, and we weren't alone, despite the epic trek to get here. A handful of fellow day-trippers and committed LOTR fans had also made the pilgrimage, some carrying replica swords and various models. The best thing we overheard at the summit: "Shall I put Gandalf back in the bag?" "Not yet dear." The views from the top were extraordinary. Looking out across the plains, with the mountains of the Southern Alps rising beyond, it was easy to see why this remote spot was chosen as the seat of King Théoden. 

Edoras

Eventually we dragged ourselves away and began the two-hour drive to Christchurch. Compared to the journey of discovery to Edoras it was rather dull. The dramatic mountain scenery gave way to the broad Canterbury Plains, one of New Zealand's most productive farming regions. Stretching from the mountains to the Pacific Ocean, the plains were formed over thousands of years by rivers carrying gravel and sediment down from the Alps. The result today is mile after mile of farmland, vineyards and some seriously straight roads. At least it made for easy driving.

Canterbury High Country

The final destination of our trip was Christchurch, and it's often described as England's most distant outpost, and within a few minutes it was easy to see why. Our first stop was New Regent Street, a delightful little precinct lined with colourful Spanish Mission-style facades, cafés, restaurants and cosy bars. The pastel buildings looked almost too neat and tidy to be real.

Trams of Christchurch

Adding to the atmosphere were Christchurch's heritage trams, which gently shuttle tourists around the city centre and somehow make the whole place feel warmer and more inviting. Christchurch was founded by English settlers in the mid-19th century, many of whom came via the Canterbury Association with the ambition of creating an idealised English city in the South Pacific. More than 170 years later the influence remains obvious.

The River Avon, Christchurch

There are references to Oxford and Cambridge seemingly everywhere. The River Avon winds through the city centre beneath mature trees, while elegant Edwardian punts drift lazily along the water carrying tourists and locals alike. Walking paths line much of the river and in the glorious sunshine it was easy to understand why people are so fond of the place.

Tram over the River Avon

One surprise was discovering a sculpture by the English artist Antony Gormley completely by accident. In fact, we found both of his Christchurch sculptures without knowing they were there. The first stands in the Avon River itself and the second is located within the nearby Arts Centre. The cast-iron human figures are part of Gormley's Event Horizon series and somehow feel perfectly suited to Christchurch's reflective character.

Antony Gormley Statue, The River Avon

The Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū was worth a look, while the Arts Centre was probably my favourite historic building in the city. Originally built as the home of Canterbury College, its courtyards, stone buildings and spires genuinely felt like a little piece of Oxbridge transported halfway around the world.

Antony Gormley Statue, The Arts Centre

The Christchurch Botanic Gardens provided another pleasant stop. Established in 1863 beside the Avon, they offer a welcome green space right in the heart of the city. We also visited the Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial. It is a simple and moving reminder of the devastating 2011 earthquake that claimed 185 lives and fundamentally reshaped the city. Much of modern Christchurch exists because of the rebuilding effort that followed.

 Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū

One thing that struck us was how compact the city centre is. Even at an extremely leisurely pace we had comfortably covered most of it in under three hours. There was more to explore a little further afield, but we had neither the time nor the inclination to venture out to the beaches or take the Christchurch Gondola. Frankly, we'd done enough this holiday.

Christchurch eating options, inside and out

It was time to go home. World events meant our route home via the Middle East was no longer feasible, meaning heading home via Los Angles and London. This also meant we had circumnavigated the whole world on this trip. Something that wasn't in the original plan! We bid farewell to our new (but old!) reliable friend the Toyota Highlander at Christchurch Airport after covering 3,579km or 2,224 miles together. It had been a blast and a journey worthy of the Fellowship.

Christchurch mural

As I boarded my flight home, I found myself reflecting on just how much this journey had meant to me. New Zealand had exceeded every expectation, not only because of its breath-taking landscapes but because of the experiences and memories I collected along the way. Whether I was standing in awe of towering mountains, walking along windswept coastlines, or simply enjoying conversations with locals, each moment felt special in its own way.

Christchurch murals

Since returning home, I have thoroughly enjoyed looking back through the thousands of photographs I took during the trip. Each image brings back vivid memories of places explored, people met, and moments that might otherwise have faded with time. Writing this travelogue has been equally rewarding, allowing me to relive the journey, reflect on my experiences, and preserve them in a way that photographs alone cannot. Together, the photographs and these written memories have helped me appreciate the trip all over again.

Heading home

While our adventure in New Zealand has come to an end, the lessons, memories, and sense of wonder it inspired will stay with me for years to come. It is a journey I will always look back on with gratitude, and one that will undoubtedly inspire future adventures. And I couldn't have done it or enjoyed it half as much without my wonderful, patient wife.x