Do you remember the first time?

Our trip to New Zealand had been a year in the making. A year of maps, books, and spreadsheets had slowly turned into actual flights, hotel and Airbnb bookings, car hire, ferry crossings, tickets to unique trips resulting in a slightly ambitious itinerary that looked great on paper but how would it pan out on the other side of the world? There was a lot to see and do so we had to focus on our priorities of lighthouses, the Lord of the Rings and the incredible landscapes and nature that Aotearoa had to offer. 

The active volcano Mt Ngauruhoe emerges from the clouds

This series of travelogues follows our journey from the first pint in Manchester Airport to the last pint in Christchurch. It’s not a guidebook, nor a history lesson. On such a tight timescale, we had to forgo a deep dive into the rich culture of the Māori, the arrival of Europeans, Cook’s voyages, and the formal British colonisation. As part of my preparation, though, I did read Michael King’s excellent Penguin History of New Zealand, which I’d recommend for anyone keen to understand the history of the place. 

Mount Sunday, used for Edoras in the Lord of the Rings films

There's also no list of “top ten must‑dos”. Search for these online and the majority of New Zealand experiences involve throwing yourself off something from a great height, or kayaking down a frothing canyon gorge, which was certainly not on our radar. It’s simply where we wanted to go, what we saw, what we did and what we thought of it, accompanied by lots and lots of photographs, and the odd video.

Sky Walkers teeter on the edge of the Sky Tower in Auckland

Our meticulous planning unfolded over three weeks on a mostly sun‑soaked, occasionally rain‑lashed journey through the North and South Islands of New Zealand. It was a demanding itinerary stitched together with early mornings, long drives, long walks and the odd, unexpected detour. But the constant was being wrapped in scenery that took our breath away. I'll take a more in-depth look at each leg of our travels, but below is a introductory overview of our route up and down and around Aotearoa.

The lighthouse at Cape Reinga

Our gateway to New Zealand was Auckland in the North Island with its iconic skyline and wonderful oceanfront. From there we headed north to Mangōnui, whose east coast harbour positively glowed at sunset. At the most northern point of New Zealand, the lighthouse at Cape Reinga delivered that surreal “We’re actually here” moment. Emerging from our months of research this was the spot our journey came alive as we surveyed the infinite beaches and the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collided below us.

The wonderful Hobbiton at Matamata

We zig‑zagged our way back down through Whangaparaoa and Matamata, spending a day on an island bird sanctuary and discovering that Hobbiton was every bit as magical as you’d hope. It was then on to Taupo and its pristine lake for geothermal oddities, and the small matter of the epic Tongariro Alpine Crossing where we walked amongst the clouds.

The beguiling Lake Matheson

Napier charmed us with its art deco seaside glow. Wellington kept us busy with Weta Workshops, Lord of the Rings locations and Cuba Street beers. Then we sailed across the Cook Strait to the South Island. A place that feels like someone upstairs had turned the scenery settings up to maximum.

The Art Deco beauty of Napier

From the wild West Coast and Franz Josef Glacier country to the alpine drama of Haast Pass, from Arrowtown’s gold‑rush charm to the turquoise calm of Lake Tekapo and its star‑soaked skies, the South Island delivered one jaw‑dropper after another. We climbed Mount Sunday, flew over the Milford Sound, found more LOTR filming spots in the most unlikely places, and ended our journey wandering the leafy, charming streets of Christchurch, exhausted but completely smitten.

Wellington is surrounded by fabulous places to walk for everyone

We had driven thousands of kilometres (3,579km or 2,224 miles to be exact) through rainforest, over mountain passes, along coastlines that looked like they’d been painted that morning and smudged by the rain. We stood where hobbits and elves once stood. We scrambled up volcanic craters, cycled to lonely lighthouses and soaked in thermal pools. And we were blessed with the weather. The sunshine followed us throughout our three‑week trip and only slipped out of step once or twice, giving us a brief taste of the famous New Zealand rain.

The view from Deer Park Heights

Global events meant a longer journey home via the United States, as opposed to the route we had taken to get here through the Middle East. So, it transpired that we completely circumnavigated the world on this trip. Something we hadn't set out to do, but it felt like another part of our bigger adventure. Two people, a big map, a bigger car, and a big country that kept welcoming us and surprising us.
New Zealand was everything we hoped for and delivered more than we could have ever planned for. And I look forward to sharing the highlights over the next few blogs.

The charming trams of Christchurch

Next time, a closer look at our first glimpse of Aotearoa as we arrive in Auckland and a famous old band is playing the night we arrive.

The Milky Way, star gazing at Lake Tekapo