Strawberry Fields Forever

After three days in Granada, it was time to make our way back through the glorious mountain range of the Sierra Nevada and continue our journey along the coast to Almería. Almería is located on Spain’s south-eastern coast and sits between the Mediterranean Sea and the arid expanses of Europe’s only true desert.

The Cathedral of the Incarnation, Almería

The city is dominated by the imposing Alcazaba fortress that sits high above the modern city that boasts a perfect mix of old and new culture in a calm and understated atmosphere. Combine that with the vast array old Tapas Bars and restaurants and a lovely seafront esplanade and beach that seems to go on forever, it's no wonder we fell in love with this Andalusian beauty.

Statue on the esplanade of Almería

But before we arrived in Almería there were a few lighthouses to check out as we motored along the coast-hugging N-340 motorway. Cabo Sacratif Lighthouse was being commandeered by engineers when we arrived, which is always good to see but made for a tricky photograph. We bagged a distant glimpse of Atalaya La Estancia which is visible from the main road but looked tricky to get close to. The distinctive Faro de Adra, with its red-striped perch above an empty beach, was more obliging, a proper lighthouse moment before we arrived in Almería.

Faro de Adra, Province of Almería

One of the key reasons for our visit to Almería was the connection with John Lennon. He spent six weeks here in 1966 filming the How I Won the War, which was directed by Richard Lester, who also directed A Hard Day's Night. Almería has a rich history as a filming location, particularly the nearby Tabernas Desert, which has been used for many classics such as A Fistful of Dollars and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. 

Casa del Cine Museum, Almería

The region's celluloid legacy is celebrated in the Casa del Cine Museum which does a lovely job of telling the story of the spaghetti westerns, biblical epics, and sci-fi flicks that were made here utilising holograms displays and clever short films. The Villa where the museum is housed is tucked away on the outskirts of Almería and is also where Lennon stayed during the filming. It was during his time in the Villa when he wrote the start of the song that would become Strawberry Fields Forever. His bedroom in the villa is now a shrine to his song writing and sunglasses, complete with a strawberry-coloured bath installation!

Strawberry Filed bathroom, Casa del Cine Museum, Almería

In the city is also a charming bronze statue of Lennon in Plaza de Flores, capturing his ruffled hair and newly acquired round glasses that was his look in the summer of 1966.

Lennon in bronze, Plaza de Flores, Almería

La Rambla, Avenida de Federico García Lorca runs through the heart of the city and is a long, tree-lined avenue that winds its way toward the port and the beaches. It has a bright, modern energy, with lively street cafés, inviting shops, eye-catching water features, and plenty of play areas for children. It has benefited from a shift in Spanish city planning policy which has turned concrete, traffic-heavy areas into green, pedestrianised spaces. 

The vast esplanade of Almería

Another example of this is the glorious beachfront esplanade of Almería which is busy with a steady stream of citizens enjoying the miles of stress-free strolling by the Mediterranean. It runs from the large port area which has two lighthouses. The distant Faro de San Telmo overlooks the port from a hilltop whilst the Port of Almería Lighthouse looks over the entrance to the harbour.

Port of Almería Lighthouse

Marking the end of the port and start of the marina and the waterfront promenade is the Eiffel-built El Cable Inglés which is a huge iron structure that was used to load minerals onto ships. It has now been turned into a walkway to celebrate the city's industrial past and offers fantastic views of the marina and seafront. It looks stunning in the late evening sunshine.

El Cable Inglés, Almería

Almería’s old town is a blend of palm-shaded plazas and faded grandeur and has a lovely, relaxed feel. The Cathedral of the Incarnation, built in the 16th century, doubled as a fortress reminding us of more tempestuous times when pirates were marauding the Mediterranean! The old town area positively heaves with wonderful tapas bars. We ate like kings during our time in Almería.

The wonderful Tapas bars of Almería

A short walk above the city is the impressive Alcazaba de Almería, a Moorish fortress that’s been watching over the city since the 10th century. It is free to enter the beautiful palace complex and gardens. The grand fortress and towers have excellent views of the city and port. On the adjacent hill the brave can ascend the (many) elaborate steps to the Jesus figure at Cerro San Cristobal. The views are well worth the steps.

Alcazaba de Almería

The Parque Natural del Cabo de Gata-Níjar is a national park that sits on a nearby volcanic peninsula with beaches that stretch for miles and is only a short drive from the city of Almería. Your first stop has to be the famous lighthouse at Faro de Cabo de Gata. And whilst the cliff -top setting was spectacular, the lighthouse itself needed a little TLC. In the park you'll pass bathing pink flamingos on the way to visit the pretty seaside villages and fishing ports of San José and Isleta del Moro. Our final stop in the park and probably the nicest was Las Negras and it's a lovely spot to enjoy a beer overlooking the fisherman's boats by the sea set against a spectacular mountain backdrop.

Faro de Cabo de Gata, Almería

The light in Almería is something else and like nothing I've experienced before. First thing and early evening there is a warm, golden, and almost cinematic glow that lifts the soul. Almería isn’t flashy. It doesn’t shout. It’s a place of quiet charm, friendly hosts and cinematic ghosts. It’s a city where lighthouses blink across the bay, where tapas cost less than a coffee back home, and where buildings catch the sunlight in a special way. One of my favourite places ever. We’ll be back. Probably very soon.

Port of Almería Lighthouse