Into Your Arms

Milan
Our final excursion of 2024 was a winter weekend break in the Italian capital of Milan. We'd visited the city on several fleeting occasions, but we felt we needed to dedicate a little more time to exploring beyond the Duomo, although the cathedral will always be a highlight.

Duomo di Milano, Milan

Normally the transfer from Malpensa Airport to the city centre is a breeze on the Malpensa Express, but unfortunately we encountered a national-wide rail strike which extended to the sleek airport transfer and the Metro system. The queues for the infrequent buses at the airport were enormous so it was an hour-long taxi journey to our apartment in the south of the city centre. There is a flat fee for the airport journey, but it is an expensive option.

The canals of Navigli, Milan

We were staying in Navigli in an apartment overlooking one of the five canals that run through this district. Whilst no longer used for commercial traffic the canals are now host to a wealth of bars and restaurants, and being only a twenty-minute walk from the centre of Milan, or an even shorter tram ride, Navigli is an excellent base to explore the city and enjoy the buzz of the nightlife.

Street art of Navigli, Milan

We started exploring Milan with the big hitters and had tickets for the Duomo Cathedral for the first entry of the day at 9am. Not matter how many times I stand on the Piazza del Duomo the building never fails to hold me in awe, and the pink marble looked resplendent in the early morning mist. 

Roof terrace of the Duomo di Milano, Milan

We had tickets for the Cathedral roof terrace and walked up the steep internal steps before emerging outside onto the first level and finding ourselves immersed in a marble myriad of spires, gargoyles, statues and flying buttresses all set against the spectacular cityscape of Milan. Being up close to the stone decorations makes you appreciate the breath-taking scale of the Duomo and the sheer size of the spectacle. To get to the central roof terrace you must climb steps that sit behind the front façade of the Cathedral overlooking the Piazza and it is a bit of a test for someone like me who has a fear of heights. I had failed to make it on a previous visit but thankfully this time I kept my head down and made it to the top terrace. The views were worth it.

Duomo di Milano, Milan

Inside the Cathedral is equally impressive. An army of magnificent columns separate the five enormous knaves, and they are adorned with thousands of ornate statues. The marble floor is floral patterned marvel that runs throughout the vast space. There's a stupendously sized organ, a music chapel, underground crypts and an archaeological area that preserves the remains of a previous basilica. The incredible stained-glass windows shine an ethereal light onto the many altars and make sure you take a close-up look at the imposing façade bronze doors. A popular oddity is the statue of Jesus disciple St. Bartholomew who was apparently flagged alive for his devotion, and the statue depicts his skin removed, exposing his raw flesh and muscle.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan

Adjacent to the Piazza del Duomo is the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II which is a wonderful looking shopping centre and is home to a gaggle of designer shops where if you need ask the price you can't afford it. If exclusive designer emporiums aren't your thing there is a vast H&M just next door. Walking through the Galleria will bring you to the Piazza della Scala, where a grand statue of Leonardo di Vinci takes pride of place, and across the road is the Teatro Alla Scala, the world-famous opera house. By now you may have earned yourself a coffee and a croissant marmaletta so check out the fabulous traditional coffee shop nearby called I Panini della Befi - Milano, and marvel at its mountain of freshly made sandwiches.

Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

The centre of Milan provides plenty to explore and the cobbled streets of artsy Brera are host to elegant boutiques and upmarket restaurants, and at its centre you'll find the Museum Pinacoteca di Brera. The thirty eight rooms that surround the beautiful courtyard are chock full of Italian paintings and can be navigated in a couple of hours, my highlights were the Supper at Emmaus by Caravaggio and the paintings of Venice by Canaletto.

A short walk from the museum is the financial district and there in the Piazza degli Affari, you'll find the magnificent homage to the bankers of the world. The huge finger statue sends a clear message to the stock exchange building opposite.

L.O.V.E., commonly known as Il Dito, Milan

It was a nice coincidence that during our weekend in Milan Evan Dando of ex-Lemonheads fame was playing a small concert at Circolo Arci Bellezza, which is a cultural centre in the University district. It's always a highlight to see our favourite artists play around Europe in different venues that offer up alternative atmospheres and experiences. This small show was no exception, and we enjoyed flashes of his old brilliance.

Evan Dando at Circolo Arci Bellezza, Milan

The main city park of Milan is called the Parco Sempione and the Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace) acts as a city gate at the north of the park. This lush green city lung is awash with Milanese jogging, cycling or doing keep fit classes. At the centre of the park is the Branco Tower which is an excellent vantage point for panoramic views of the city.

Parco Sempione, Sforzesco Castle, Milan

From the viewing platform of the Branco Tower, you'll enjoy great views of the Sforzesco Castle in the south of the park which is a beautiful building. The grounds are free to explore which is nice, although the numerous museums it houses require ticket entry.

Branco Tower, Milan

A short walk from the park through China Town is the Monumental Cemetery, or Cimitero Monumentale. Similar to the fabulous cemetery we recently visited in Genoa, this is another spectacular collection of spectacular sculptures and ornate tombs set in expansive, calming gardens. The Tomb of the Famiglia Campari recreates Christ and his disciplines at the Last Supper which is a decent free alternative to visiting the iconic DaVinci painting at Santa Maria delle Grazie in the city which requires buying a ticket several months in advance.

The Last Supper at the Monumental Cemetery of Milan

And that was our November weekend in Milan! Thanks for checking in.
Lots more photographs from this trip and more can be on my Instagram account postcardsfromamancunian.

Navigli, Milan