The White Rose of Athens

So last time we explored the Acropolis and the Parthenon and marvelled at the story and lavish history in the fabulous accompanying museum. But Athens is a living breathing museum and there is so much history to absorb at archaeological sites that you will find around every corner in this city. Some are free to visit, some, such as the Olympic Stadium require a separate entry fee and some are free as part of your Athena's Combined Ticket and these seem like a good place to start...

Temple of Hephaestus Ancient Agora

First on the list was the tranquil and beautiful Ancient Agora. In ancient Greek agora translates to  'meeting place' or 'market place'. So this rather grand centre of commerce that sits in the shadow of the Acropolis boasts the impressively intact Temple of Hephaestus and also the restored portico, the Stoa of Attalos which hosts a small but fascinating museum with artifacts from the site. Wandering around this oasis of calm in the centre of the city make sure you lookout for the statue of Socrates, celebrating the time he spent here, probably making very astute and important decisions on life. Why not take advantage of the calm and do the same?

Stone statue Ancient Agora (not Socrates)

In Plaka the bustling Arianou street is awash with bars and restaurants if you need refreshments before exploring the sites of the Roman Agora and Hadrian's Library which sit on either side of the famous street, albeit on different levels. At some point you may start to become a little blasé at the incredible ancient sites that proliferate Athens but it is astonishing that these preserved cities exist with within cities, often next to railway tracks or metro lines. 

Again, the Kerameikos archaeological site (also included on your Athena tickets) is a massive silent cemetery, sheltering in the centre of a huge metropolis. There are some serious sculptures decorating parts of the tombs and burial grounds.

Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens

Our last stop courtesy of our Athena ticket was the Temple of Olympian Zeus and you need little imagination to visualise the sheer scale of the original temple building. It has some seriously impressive columns and a Roman bathhouse which is more interesting that it sounds. The large and imposing  Hadrian's' Gate can be found at the north west corner of the site.

Changing of the guard at the Hellenic Parliament, Athens

A more modern must-see in Athens is the wonderfully eccentric changing of the guard at the Hellenic Parliament. It is performed on the hour, every hour by the soldiers which protect the government buildings. A short stroll away is the Athens National Gardens complete with colony of exotic green parrots. It is a very pleasant and leisurely experience to explore its vast array of meandering paths and orange groves.

Athens National Gardens

Waking through the Gardens you come to the Panathenaic Stadium. It is a spectacular ancient stadium, even if the track was technically too small for the 2004 Olympic Games. There is a small Olympic museum under the stands that's worth a quick look but it's selling point is the incredible marble seating areas and imagining his place full of  the original Olympians. And watching folk posing for the compulsory photograph on the winner's podiums. 

The 2004 Olympic Games are a much debated and hotly contested topic in Athens, as they are seen as a major contributing factor contributing to the economic collapse of Greece. The new roads from the airport, built as part of the Olympic infrastructure rebuild are great but maybe don't ask your taxi driver what they think of the tolls still being paid on the roads twenty years later.

The Panathenaic Stadium, Athens

In the north east of the city is Lycabettus Hill, the highest point of the city. The Funicular on Aristippou is a fun way to reach the summit as it ascends within a tunnel so the final reveal of the views of Athens is quite literally breath-taking. There is a small café and beautiful chapel at the viewing platform, but nothing can distract from the sight of the endless city unfolding in front of you from this glorious natural vantage point.  I would heartily recommend the gentle stroll back down the hill through lush trees and gardens.

The small chapel at Lycabettus Hill, Athens

A trip to Athens isn't complete without a day trip to the seaside. From the central Monastiraki Station it will cost you just over two euros for a day return to Piraeus, the port of Athens. The ticket machines take a little bit of navigation, especially as the easy walkability of the city means the call to use public transport is very limited. But there are staff on hand to help choose between the various transport options afforded by the metro and train lines.

Thirty minutes later (on the metro) we found ourselves in the sunshine at very nice Zea Marina which is adjacent to the main industrial port of Piraeus. A short walk around the corner is Votsalakia Beach which is perfectly adequate for dipping your toes in the Aegean Sea. Next up along the coast is the Mikrolimano Marina which is home to lots of  high-end seafood restaurants should you be a little peckish. Carry on walking and you'll find yourself at the Peace and Friendship Stadium Park which is a nice park and events arena. A short distance away is the Georgios Karaiskakis Football Stadium, home to the Olympiakos football team and where you'll also find the Neo Faliro Metro Station which will conveniently take you back into the centre of busy Athens.

Votsalakia Beach at Piraeus, the Port of Athens

Monastiraki Squre is the centre of the hustle and bustle of Athens' market district with shops and stalls sandwiched between ancient mosques and churches. You can pick up anything your heart desires such as quirky souvenirs, leather goods and  pottery. It is a shopper's paradise.

The unique shopping experience continues as you wander through adjacent Psirri, although it becomes a little more foodie. Try out the famous famous custard pies at Bougatsadiko Psirri. And it's this area that really sparks into life after dark as chairs and tables appear from hidden bars, emerging from the nooks and crannies of the busy streets, creating an intoxicating atmosphere every night of the week.

The famous area of Plaka nestled under the Acropolis provides more straight forward tourist fare but the vibrant and colourful streets are great fun for exploring with restaurants and shops around every corner, some even perched on the steps of the picturesque thoroughfares. And if you time it right you may even manage to get a table at the wonderful Restaurant Scholarhio. The sauteed pork in honey and balsamic vinegar is incredible.

The street art of Psirri, central Athens

As you navigate the promenade that rings the Acropolis take a detour to the Thissio district, which will provide a local feel to the eating out and café culture. Highly recommended is the  Στέκι Του Ηλία (Chop House Restaurant) which has a large garden area opposite the large main restaurant. We kept returning here again and again, working our way through the very vegetarian friendly menu, although they are famous for their trays of crispy lamb chops which are superb.

Another couple of restaurants worth a mention are the Mironi Restaurant in the Metaxourghio district, which is only a short walk out of central Athens. the staff and the food are fantastic. Back in the centre a very different culinary adventure is to be had at the Aspro Alogo (White Horse). This small, bedraggled looking restaurant serves traditional Greek food and when we visited there was just one poor old fella doing everything front of house and in the kitchen. But it is a truly authentic experience and the food was excellent, you'll just need to be patient. The minuscule bill with free bottle of water will put a smile on your face.

As for bars, the Old Fashioned Bar in Pssiri appears from nowhere at night and the DJ plays an eclectic mix of indie bangers, perfect for pre and post meal. For the ale experience the Barley Cargo is a steady pair of hands for an afternoon pint. 

Central Athens

We were completely enamoured with our time in Athens, the wonderfully warm welcome was honest and heartfelt, and was to be found wherever we ventured in the city and beyond. And despite spending a full week exploring there is so much more we felt that we could have seen. We will be returning as soon as our plans allow, out of season of course.

The Acropolis, wonderful Athens