Let’s Go Surfing

A Coruña occupies a peninsula on the north-western Galician coast, with the Atlantic on one side and the sheltered waters of the estuary on the other. A Coruña has a strong identity of its own, shaped by its maritime history and its position as one of Galicia's principal cities. Unlike some historic Spanish centres that can feel dominated by visitors, it is very much a living city, with residents using the old streets and squares as part of their everyday social life.

Torre de Hércules, A Coruña

We were staying a little way out from the main centre, in Monte Alto, a neighbourhood that offered a more everyday view of city life and sits in the shadow of the impressive Torre de Hércules. The tower is one of A Coruña's defining landmarks and has a rather special place in maritime history. But more of that later, first let's talk food.

The beaches of A Coruña

It was Friday night and we were ready to explore A Coruña. The old town was absolutely buzzing, with an atmosphere that felt like a smaller, more compact version of Madrid. People of all ages were out enjoying the start of the weekend, filling the streets, squares and bars. At the heart of the city is the impressive Plaza de María Pita, named after the local heroine who became famous for her part in defending A Coruña against the English attack of 1589. The narrow streets surrounding the square are packed with bars and restaurants, and they were already filling up nicely, despite our distinctly English habit of heading out for dinner a little earlier than the locals.

Nightlife, A Coruña

The emphasis is on a relaxed eating experience, picking up tapas as you move from bar to bar. On our first night we came across some great takes on authentic Galician cuisine. Octopus hotdog anyone? It was superb! As we were to discover over the next few days Galicia has a long-standing reputation for excellent seafood, and the region's cod, scallops, prawns and other fish are a major part of its culinary identity. The Atlantic waters and extensive fishing grounds provide an extraordinary range of ingredients, while the local cooking tends to let the quality of the produce speak for itself.

Octopus Hotdog, only in A Coruña

In our short time in A Coruña we enjoyed some special food. From hearty chickpea stews, perfectly cooked fresh fish, to wonderful tortillas and the Spanish classic of the Calamari sandwiches. And we had the chance to sample these in a range of settings from outdoor tapas bars, pintxos in local market halls, to more formal restaurants and even the backstreet cafés where portion sizes were incredible. This is a different level food destination.

Torre de Hércules, A Coruña

Now onto that lighthouse. The Tower of Hercules is an ancient Roman lighthouse dating from the late first or early second century AD. It is widely recognised as the world's oldest surviving lighthouse still in use and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009. Its original Roman structure has been altered over the centuries, most notably during an eighteenth-century restoration, but the tower remains a remarkable link between the ancient and modern worlds.

Torre de Hércules, A Coruña

The tower is an astonishing sight; set on a rocky peninsula it dominates its surroundings. The lighthouse is open to the public and beneath and around the present structure are the Roman archaeological remains that help explain its original construction and purpose. And as you would expect, the views from the top of the exposed Atlantic coast and A Coruña are spectacular.

Faro do Castelo de Santo Antón, A Coruña

The surrounding landscape is also interesting. The Parque Escultórico da Torre de Hércules is an open-air sculpture park, with artworks scattered across the headland and positioned against the sea, cliffs and lighthouse. It is a fabulous place to relax and take stock just a short distance from a bustling city centre.

Neptune mural, A Coruña

Castelo de San Antón is a maritime fortress that sits on a small island-like outcrop beside the harbour. The castle was built in the sixteenth century and over time the fortress served a variety of purposes, including military use and a period as a prison. Today, it houses an archaeological museum with exhibits covering the history of the region, from prehistoric finds to its maritime past. Best of all, entry was free that day, being a Saturday, so it was a bargain all round. There was even a small lighthouse within the grounds, Faro do Castelo de Santo Antón, which provided an unexpected bonus.

Plaza de María Pita, A Coruña

Last night we’d seen the city enjoying itself so revisiting the Plaza de María Pita in the daytime was a more subdued affair. The pretty square is dominated by the grand town hall and as we’d discovered, from here, a network of streets leads into the old quarter and the city's famous tapas areas, including Calle de los Vinos and the streets around Avenida da Mariña.

A Coruña's famous glazed balconies, known as galerías.

Avenida da Mariña is particularly distinctive because of its famous glazed balconies, known as galerías. These glass-enclosed façades give the waterfront a rather elegant appearance and have earned A Coruña a reputation as the Ciudad de Cristal, or City of Glass. The galleries were developed partly as a way of bringing more light into buildings while offering protection from the Atlantic weather. They are a lovely architectural feature and make the waterfront look quite different from the traditional stone streets of many other Spanish cities.

Wedding, Plaza de María Pita, A Coruña

We passed the Igrexa de San Xurxo, or Church of St George, where a wedding was taking place in the sunshine. It was a lovely little scene, with guests gathering outside and the Old Town providing a suitably picturesque backdrop. We also popped into Mercado de San Agustín, another of the traditional markets we had encountered on our travels around Spain. Markets are always worth a quick look (ask Rick Stein), even when you're not buying anything, because they offer a glimpse of how local life works.

The Comedy Square, A Coruña

The Gardens of Méndez Núñez are one of the city's principal green spaces, and we spotted Spider-Man and a few other cartoon characters dotted around. Quite what they were all doing there was anyone's guess, but they added a bit of unexpected entertainment to the morning. The gardens sit close to the city centre and provide a pleasant contrast to the surrounding streets and waterfront. We continued as far as the main port before turning back through the old town, then made our way towards the opposite side of the city’s peninsula and its beaches.

Spiderman spotted in A Coruña

A Coruña has one of the most unusual urban coastlines in Spain. Rather than being separated from the sea by an industrial waterfront, much of the city opens directly onto sandy beaches, rocky headlands and the Atlantic. Riazor is the better-known of the two beaches and is closely associated with the city's football club, Deportivo de La Coruña, whose stadium is nearby. Orzán is popular with surfers, thanks to its exposed position and Atlantic waves and that’s where you’ll also find the great homage the local past time, the majestic bronze Surfers' Fountain (Fonte dos Surfistas).

Fonte dos Surfistas, A Coruña

All are connected the Paseo Marítimo, the city's extensive seaside promenade, which stretches for around 13 kilometres around much of the peninsula. It's a wonderful feature of A Coruña. The promenade links beaches, parks, headlands and historic landmarks, giving residents and visitors the opportunity to explore much of the coastline on foot.

The Galaicans love their Octopus

As a final goodbye to our time in A Coruña I was up before sunrise, keen to return to the Torre de Hércules. The tower is impressive at any time of day, but I wanted to see what it looked like in the early morning light, before the city properly woke up. As the sun came up, and the colours on the lighthouse were beautiful. The changing light picked out the structure against the Atlantic, while the surrounding coastline gradually emerged from the dawn. A lighthouse with nearly two thousand years of history behind it, with just me looking on.

Torre de Hércules, A Coruña

Next, we would be back on the road, heading towards Finisterre and some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in Galicia. The end of the world was calling.