Back to the Old House

It's not often that we return to a place we've visited as there's always somewhere new to explore. But when we last left Almería last year, I knew we would be back. And soon! So when we were perusing a suitable destination to wind-down after our gargantuan trip to New Zealand, there was only one candidate in the frame. Some places demand an itinerary. Almería demands something altogether different, it is an invitation to slow down.

Faro de San Telmo, Almería

So when we returned to this sun-drenched corner of Andalucía we weren't chasing landmarks or ticking off attractions. We'd already fallen under Almería's spell on a previous visit and you can read all about that here. This time we came back for the easy rhythm of life by the sea, the long waterfront walks, the unhurried lunches, and the simple pleasure of finding a favourite bar and returning to it again and again. I suppose that's what normal folk do on holiday!

Faro de San Telmo, Almería

Our trip began in familiar fashion with an early flight from a rain-soaked Manchester. By mid-morning we were collecting our hire car beneath clear Spanish skies and settling into an apartment overlooking the Mediterranean. Within an hour of arriving we were doing exactly what Almería encourages best: strolling along the seafront with no particular destination in mind.

Kiosco Amalia, Almería

The waterfront became the backbone of our week. Every day seemed to start or end with a walk beside the sea. Sometimes we headed towards the city, sometimes away from it, but always at a leisurely pace. There was no rush. The sea was never far away, and neither was the promise of a cold beer and a plate of tapas.

Almería

One of the joys of staying put for a week is discovering the places that tourists often overlook. We quickly developed a fondness for the local bars near our apartment. Cervecería La Cala became a regular haunt, serving generous tapas without fuss or pretension. We often wandered into the old town and on one occasion visited the Cathedral of the Incarnation, somehow overlooked on our previous stay. 

Faro de Mojácar

Our favourite re-discovery was Bar El Quincho in the center of town. The place was perpetually busy, packed with locals who seemed perfectly happy to queue for a table. With each drink came a generous tapa, and we happily worked our way through the menu with cold beers and sparkling wine. 

The white-washed houses of Mojácar

Of course, no holiday of ours would be complete without a few lighthouses. One morning we set off on foot in search of Faro de San Telmo which is on the outskirts of Almería. Reaching it proved more complicated than expected. Attempts to get a better photograph eventually led us into the port area where my enthusiasm for lighthouses attracted the attention of both the port police and a Civil Guard helicopter. Thankfully, after a brief conversation and some apologetic explanations, everyone saw the funny side and we escaped with nothing more serious than a story to tell over lunch.

Faro del Sabinar

Another day took us west towards the nature reserve near the seaside town of Roquetas de Mar. We failed to find the flamingos we were hoping for but were rewarded with two more lighthouses instead. Faro del Sabinar stood isolated within the reserve, while on the town seafront itself, the Faro de Roquetas de Mar occupied a much friendlier setting beside Castillo de Santa Ana. Roquetas de Mar felt more geared towards tourism than Almería, but it was pleasant enough for a coffee and a wander before returning to our favourite.

Faro de Roquetas de Mar

A drive east produced perhaps the most dramatic scenery of the trip. The town of Mojácar rises from the hills in a blaze of whitewashed houses, its narrow streets perched high above the coast. Nearby, the modern-looking Faro de Mojácar offered sweeping views across a rugged landscape where mountains tumble towards the Mediterranean. 

Old Lighthouse at Garrucha 

Further along the coast we paused in Garrucha for tapas by the marina before tracking down the town's original lighthouse on the journey home. A thunderstorm rolled through the mountains as we returned to Almería, creating a spectacular backdrop. 

Garrucha seafront

By the sixth day we had slipped completely into holiday mode. Mornings were unhurried, afternoons were laid-back, and evenings revolved around food, drink and people-watching in the city's plazas. Almería had stopped feeling like a destination and started feeling like a temporary home.

Hills of Mojácar

What struck me most about this visit was how comfortable the city feels when you stop trying to see everything. The grand monuments, historic fortresses and famous sights were still there, but this trip was about something simpler. It was about finding a favourite table, recognising familiar faces behind the bar, walking the same stretch of promenade each day, and discovering the quiet satisfaction of doing very little at all.

Faro de San Telmo, Almería

Almería remains one of Spain's most understated coastal cities. It doesn't compete for attention. It simply gets on with being itself. After a week of sunshine, seafood, lighthouses, leisurely strolls and excellent tapas, we once again found ourselves reluctant to leave. Some places reward exploration. Almería rewards returning.