In the crowd
Capri
The island of Capri is only an hour away on the ferry from Naples, and I hated the place when we landed here. On arrival departing the huge ferry boats, tourists jostle and queue for every mode of transport to maximise their day on the island. It makes for chaotic introduction.
Thankfully my we had anticipated this arrival scenario and actually booked into a very nice hotel right on the Marina Grande harbour where we landed. This meant we weren't faced with the manic scramble for the funicular or buses to get up to the popular Capri Town. In five minutes we found ourselves checked in and sat in a beautiful room complete with balcony overlooking the harbour, the beautiful sea and the madness.
The island's main draw is Capri Town and can be reached by either funicular, taxi or bus. Or you could actually walk up the windy, narrow roads, as we did. Make sure you take advantage of the steps that circumvent some of the bends and provide respite from the busy traffic.
Capri town itself is a busy hub of restaurants, designer shops and not much else.
We fought through the crowds to find some decent views of the sea and the dramatic cliffs that Capri Town is perched upon. And they were pretty spectacular and surprisingly quiet.
But we didn't find much else to keep us in the town for long.
Back at the harbour, as the sun began to set, we were witness to a Cinderella-like transformation as the day-trippers got back on the boats and a calm descended. It felt like a completely different place and we saw Capri for what it really is, a beautiful serene island.
From our hotel balcony we could look down to the restaurants on the sea front and take our pick of where we wanted to eat. What a difference a few hours can make!
The next morning, by the time the ferries where dropping off another batch of day-trippers we were already well on our way to Anacapri, the second, and less flashy town on the island. The bumpy bus ride on the tiny, precarious roads of Capri takes around 30 minutes. From Anacapri we jumped straight on another bus (empty) with the lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena as our destination.
The lighthouse first makes itself visible through the trees towards the end the bus route then explodes into a fabulous vista when you turn the last corner.
We spent an hour wandering around the dramatic coastline taking photos and exploring the many vantage points. There is also a Lido built into the rocks should you wish to take a dip under the gaze of the lighthouse.
Back in Anacapri we had a great lunch at Aumm Aumm Ristorante Pizzeria. I don't always mention restaurants but from the front you won't be aware of the lovely garden at the rear. And it does great pizzas at a very reasonable price for Capri.
Once back at the main harbour we did succumb to tourist pressure and hopped on a short boat trip around the island, but it was well worth it because of the different views of the lighthouse it offered.
Then as evening approached, the island once again put it's foot on the brakes and we sat on the hotel balcony enjoying the calm and incredible views.
Despite the less than salubrious start to our trip, it ended in fine form, drinking red wine overlooking the sea, satisfied we'd seen all the best bits that Capri had to offer in a busy two days.
And the stunning lighthouse on it's own made the visit to Capri all worth while.
The island of Capri is only an hour away on the ferry from Naples, and I hated the place when we landed here. On arrival departing the huge ferry boats, tourists jostle and queue for every mode of transport to maximise their day on the island. It makes for chaotic introduction.
Arrival on Capri. |
Thankfully my we had anticipated this arrival scenario and actually booked into a very nice hotel right on the Marina Grande harbour where we landed. This meant we weren't faced with the manic scramble for the funicular or buses to get up to the popular Capri Town. In five minutes we found ourselves checked in and sat in a beautiful room complete with balcony overlooking the harbour, the beautiful sea and the madness.
Escaping the maddening hordes |
The island's main draw is Capri Town and can be reached by either funicular, taxi or bus. Or you could actually walk up the windy, narrow roads, as we did. Make sure you take advantage of the steps that circumvent some of the bends and provide respite from the busy traffic.
Capri town itself is a busy hub of restaurants, designer shops and not much else.
We fought through the crowds to find some decent views of the sea and the dramatic cliffs that Capri Town is perched upon. And they were pretty spectacular and surprisingly quiet.
But we didn't find much else to keep us in the town for long.
View from Capri town. |
Back at the harbour, as the sun began to set, we were witness to a Cinderella-like transformation as the day-trippers got back on the boats and a calm descended. It felt like a completely different place and we saw Capri for what it really is, a beautiful serene island.
From our hotel balcony we could look down to the restaurants on the sea front and take our pick of where we wanted to eat. What a difference a few hours can make!
Evening in Capri Grande Harbour |
The next morning, by the time the ferries where dropping off another batch of day-trippers we were already well on our way to Anacapri, the second, and less flashy town on the island. The bumpy bus ride on the tiny, precarious roads of Capri takes around 30 minutes. From Anacapri we jumped straight on another bus (empty) with the lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena as our destination.
The lighthouse first makes itself visible through the trees towards the end the bus route then explodes into a fabulous vista when you turn the last corner.
Lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena, Capri, Italy |
We spent an hour wandering around the dramatic coastline taking photos and exploring the many vantage points. There is also a Lido built into the rocks should you wish to take a dip under the gaze of the lighthouse.
Lido at Lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena, Capri, Ital |
Back in Anacapri we had a great lunch at Aumm Aumm Ristorante Pizzeria. I don't always mention restaurants but from the front you won't be aware of the lovely garden at the rear. And it does great pizzas at a very reasonable price for Capri.
Lido at Lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena, Capri, Italy |
Lido at Lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena, Capri, Italy |
Once back at the main harbour we did succumb to tourist pressure and hopped on a short boat trip around the island, but it was well worth it because of the different views of the lighthouse it offered.
Lighthouse Faro Di Punta Carena, Capri, Ital |
Then as evening approached, the island once again put it's foot on the brakes and we sat on the hotel balcony enjoying the calm and incredible views.
Despite the less than salubrious start to our trip, it ended in fine form, drinking red wine overlooking the sea, satisfied we'd seen all the best bits that Capri had to offer in a busy two days.
And the stunning lighthouse on it's own made the visit to Capri all worth while.
Capri, Italy |
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